Ifaty Reviews

Hi Helen

We have settled back in at home after an amazing holiday which proved strenuous for us older folk. Still, we managed to complete all the treks and were thrilled by the variety of wildlife and how close we were able to approach, especially the lemurs.

Here are a few comments on the various stages –

Relais des Plateaux – Very good service, excellent food. Position close to the airport is ideal.  Accommodation comfortable, clean and neat.

Vakona Lodge – Exceeded our expectations. Accommodation, meals and surroundings all very good.

Visits to Mantadia National Park gave good sightings of Indri and Red Fronted Lemurs , also, a Tenrec.

Lemur Island was a surprise, getting close to Common Brown Lemurs, good views of Red Ruffed and Black and White Ruffed Lemurs. Also, a n Eastern Grey Bamboo Lemur.

Analamazaotra Forest trek was unforgettable with too many Lemurs and birds to mention and even a Giraffe Necked Weevil.

Likewise Mitsinjo Forest – good for a variety of Chameleons  and Leaf Tailed Geckos.

Throughout, the local guides, William and his assistant  (Jolene I think) were exemplary. True experts in locating the animals.

Overall, the time spent at Vakona Lodge was about right with adequate time for visits to National Parks.

After flight to Tulear, visit to Arboretum was okay ensuring we did not arrive too early at the Paradisier . Good hotel  - pleasant location on the beach. We would have liked to have spent at least one more day here, so that we could spend more time in the Spiny Forest, and relax a little. Early morning visit to Parc Mosa showed  us a wide variety  of birds – one minor criticism, the local guides  were over enthusiastic in chasing out a Ground Roller, clearly to please the group , but we did feel  the bird was unduly harassed.

At Zombitse National Park, highlight was seeing Verreaux’s Sifakas and Oustalet’s Chameleon.

Jarden du Roy – Excellent in all respects. We would have liked to spend more time here, for relaxation.

On morning visit to Isalo National Parkm we saw a Hoopoe  feeding its young and continued our interesting walk through rocks to see natural pool.

Afternoon visit involved a  long walk through canyon was hard work, but well worth the effort for the scenery, Ring Tailed Lemurs and birds. We had amazing sight of Paradise Flycatchers in action.

Betsileo Lodge was fine. Good Accommodation, food and service.

Morning walk to National park was spoiled by torrential rain – a good introduction to the rain forest, but photography of Lemurs and Sifakas wasn’t possible due to the rain.

To Hotel Thermal – very wet- so a free afternoon was welcome. Next day, in fine weather, excellent sighting of Giraffe Weevil, Milne Edwards Sifakas, Golden Bamboo Lemurs and Greater Bamboo Lemur.

Long drive to Antsirabe was clearly unavoidable but made interesting by meeting local children on brief stops.

Couleur Cafe was OK for brief stay.

On arrival at Antananarivo , city tour was informative with a ride in the CV’s a surprise.

Our extension in Antananarivo was a chance to wind down. With the car and driver we were able to visit Rova Palace in Antananarivo and the next day we went to the Ambohimanga  palaces in the countryside which are in good condition.

So overall was an unforgettable experience which more than fulfilled our expectations. Made all the more special by our guide, Solofoniray and the local guides.

Hello Derek

What can I say?   The trip was wonderful. Thank you, Rainbow Tours and Za Tours for its organisation.  

The standard of the hotels in general was higher than I expected and some were excellent: 

Vakona Forest Lodge was of a high standard although everything seemed to stay damp (I know, a rainforest)

La Paradisier was excellent in a beautiful location with a good personal feel to it. 

Jardin du Roy was fine, obviously, but except for the scenery could have been anywhere in the world. 

Thermal Hotel ranks with La Paradisier as excellent partly as being the only place where we could wander out into the village and see people going about their daily lives (I even watched children early morning swim training which seems unbelievable).  It would have been preferable to have had the planned 3 nights there.  

Food in general suited me, a bit boring but I didn’t fall ill and I didn’t go hungry. Interesting how much pasta was offered.  Lunches too large, breakfast sometimes didn’t capitalise enough on the wonderful fresh fruit available.  And, thank goodness, all meals included, no fusing around looking for cafes etc.  

Wildlife.  Superb.  

I had expected lemurs and they didn’t disappoint, I think 12 different ones, highlights: watching, photo-ing an indri as he shouted, golden bamboo lemurs leaping around in the trees, red bellied lemurs spotted by chance as we left Mantadia NP

But also chameleons.  At least 9 varieties.   Unexpectedly, I really enjoyed them.  

And geckos, lizards, a tenrec, tree boa.  Various insects, giraffe beetle, preying mantis

Nothing unusual to you but all of them unique for me.  

There were birds but I saw few of them. Not prolific like elsewhere in Africa.  

I also enjoyed walking through forests (except one morning in Ranomafana NP, where we saw virtually nothing and got unbelievably wet, the Thermal hotel hair dryer worked hard at drying my usually waterproof boots). The spiny forest with amazing baobabs was a pleasure, I’ve seen some in SA and boabs in Western Australia nice to see their cousins.  No dangerous animals makes for a so different experience than elsewhere in Africa.  

Landscape:  complete surprise to me to see endless paddy fields and almost endless brick making.  The very different agriculture. No tractors.   And potholes.  

People, culture.  I’m not going to say anything new.   I was very interested to see it all and would have liked more but clearly not an interest to the rest of my group.  Sadly they seemed most interested in giving sweets to begging children.  

Our guides.  Solofo was brilliant.   Best guide I think I have ever had.  Clearly a benefit to keep same person throughout so he gets to know us and us him. But beyond that very intelligent, knowledgeable about and passionate about Madagascar.  Almost couldn’t floor him with a question.  He has greatly added to my experience in and knowledge of the country.   I have nothing but the highest praise.  

Guides in the parks seemed well chosen and skilled at lemur location.  

Our driver kept us safe on some poor roads with bad drivers.  

Of the tour in general. At times too rushed. Things we could have spent longer with.  But 2 weeks is a magic number.  I especially liked the fact that we were not endlessly moving on, that we had 2 or 3 nights in a location and as already mentioned not to have to fuss about meals was a bonus.  

But ultimately it can only be classed as wonderful.   For that, again many thanks.  

Where next?

'Hello Derek - the holiday was superb! We were looked after really well. The accommodation was excellent - particularly that for Christmas and New Year. All the local guides were brilliant, taking a note of our interests, doing all they could to find the lemurs, birds and much else besides. Our 2 guide/drivers were also excellent. Njiva in particular was outstanding. He always went the extra mile, stopping whenever there was something of interest, enabling us to sample fruit and cooked corn along the road and visit all the craft places (more than those on the itinerary). His knowledge and english was also superb. He even noticed and without being asked pulled over whenever Linden or I raised a camera to the window in the car. It was great that he also came on all bar one of the walks with us (wasn't safe on that occasion to leave the car unattended). He added his spotting skills, knowledge and even helped carry our kit! We went owl spotting one night - he was determined to enable us to see an owl. One kept enticing us in and then flying away - but he found it for us eventually. We entertained all the diners rushing about in the dark with our torches and cameras.

The journey was a bit challenging - especially the return. Any idea why Air France do not allow souvenirs into the cabin? We were well below the Business Class limit and there was plenty of room. Seemed an unnecessary rule that is not mentioned on their website.

I would love to go again some time and visit the north. But I would want to explore other means to get there.

Very many thanks for all your advice and assistance. I'll certainly travel with Rainbow again.

Very best wishes

Helen'

Hi Derek

You will have received some excellent shots from some of our group members. The trip (Madagascar Wildlife Discovery 23 October 2018 departure) was excellent and we have very positive views and would recommend the trip.

All arrangements were good, accommodation and food were good to excellent.

All the guides used were very good.  Jessica was one of the best tour  leaders we have ever had.  I am sure that will be a comment shared by all trip participants.  

More than sufficient time was given for viewing and photographs.

Best wishes

Richard Higgs

Hi Derek

I meant to message you when I was away but I got caught up in the magic of Mada 😉

WHAT A TRIP!

For now, thank you very very much for putting together the most phenomenal itinerary. I think this may be the first of many trips… I loved it, Ajay loved it, and to be honest, my mind still can’t quite process how much we did and saw!

Meera

Hello Derek,

I must apologise for the lateness of this heart felt thank you to everyone at Rainbow Tours for organise the amazing group tour of Madagascar, back in September.

I know that everyone of my fellow travellers has praised your company for its excellent customer service. We all felt confident in the travel arrangements and that our individual queries and requirements were well-catered for.

The holiday itself more than met our expectations and this was very much due to the superb tour guide, Toky Andriamora. He had  all the qualities needed to organise the local guides, hotel staff, and possessed an encyclopaedic knowledge of the flora and fauna of the island.

More than that, he was affable, entertaining and resourceful. Looking after eight silver-haired travellers would tax anyone’s patience but Toky  never lacked humour and efficiency.

The itinerary was well-prepared and provided a good insight into the lives of the local people as well as wonderful encounters with the wildlife and varied landscape of the island. Looking back over the photographs will give us much pleasure.

We were surprised by the good quality of the hotels. The settings of Andasibe Hotel, Le Paradisier, Relais de La Reine, Bougainvilier Hotel and Thermal Lodge were beautiful. We would have liked to stay a further night at both Le Paradisier and Bougainvilier. For the most part the food was fine although the cuisine at Thermal Hotel did not match the quality of its rooms or setting. The only disappointing accommodation was Couleur Café; poor room, noisy, power cuts, disorganised reception. The plus point was a good meal!

Although the travel between hotels was often long, the vehicles were comfortable and roomy. The drivers always inspired us with confidence and always ready to stop for points of interest.

Please pass on our thanks to all the team. They helped to make a dream come true!

Regards,

Peter and Jennifer Esposito

Gersica was an exceptional guide (Madagascar 23 October 2018 small group Wildlife Discovery tour) - knowledgeable, humorous, nothing was too much trouble for her. 

Overall holiday satisfaction: Excellent

Dear Helen

I am safely back home after a very successful trip to Madagascar. We had a very good guide on the first part of the tour, (Gersica). She had great knowledge of both wildlife and culture. Without her stories about the culture of the different tribes we met on the long drive from Tulear back to Tana, the journey should felt much longer. The accommodation was very good at all places. And the wildlife was superb. I saw 102 new bird species (endemics) inclusive the two bird orders I was missing, the cuckoo roller and mesite. I also saw representants from all five endemic bird families.

I saw 21 species of lemurs and 15 species of chameleons and one tenrec (the lesser hedgehog tenrec), a new mammal order for me.

The trip north to Ankarafantsika was also very successful. The Madagascar fish eagle was breeding at lake Ravelobe and could be studied from the boat.

I attach a few photos of some highlights on the tour.

Thank you very much for organising this tour.

Best wishes,

Jan 

Our guide (22 September small group tour) was sensational....The trip was better than I had been expecting; the hotels were all very good and I would recommend your company.

Helen's adfice when I was booking was excellent and I loved Madagascar!

My favourite parts of the (Madagascar Small Group Wildlife Discovery Tour, 07 October 2018 departure) trip were:

1) Andasibe

2) The Spiny Forest (of Ifaty)

3) Isalo - mainly for the birds but also the scenery

4) Lemur Island - good fun. 

My least favourite part were the long but slow drives from Setam Lodge to Couleur Cafe to Antananarivo, with little or no birding or wildlife interest. 

Gersica was friendly, helpful, well organised and had excellent knowledge of birds (my main interest(. She was thoughtful and was good company. Our drivers were caerful, especially Tsu. 

'Overall satisfaction (16 September Madagascar Small Group set departure): Excellent.

The garden and setting of Relais la Reine were splendid'. 

Dear Helen,

I wanted to thank you personally for the terrific trip [22 September 2018 small group set departure]  to Madagascar. It was everything we could have dreamed of and more.

There really wasn’t one thing that was not quite right. It was all brilliant, the organisation, accommodation, transport, parks and sites, food everything.

Hery our guide,  was exceptional, so were the drivers, always good humoured after the most harrowing drives, we always felt safe too.

I hope we will be back one day, this time maybe with some gemmologists. I will get in touch with you about that.

Please could you pass on our compliments to your DMC for such a well organised tour.

We have been with Rainbow Tours four times now and will definitely go again.

With best wishes

Barbara and John

John Baldwin and Barbara Kolator

Our key species list for the 22 September Madagascar Small Group Wildlife Discovery Tour. 

With many thanks for such a fabulous trip,

Clive Marks

23rd September, Andasibe, arriving:

Indri family groups by the roadside

23rd September, 1st night walk

Short-nosed chameleon

Stump-tailed chameleon (superciliaris)

Mossy leaf-tailed gecko, underside

Parson's chameleon

Darwin spider

Green tree frog

Goodman's mouse lemur, being hounded by many people & hiding between Clive's boots

24th September, Andasibe

Red-tailed vanga

Blue coua

Forest fody

Indri

Scops owl, eastern rufous

Diademed sifaka

Eastern woolly lemurs

Green day gecko

Collared nightjar

Giraffe-necked weevils, male and female

Brown pansy butterfly

"Steve bum-biter bug"!

Blue pansy butterfly

Blue swallowtail butterfly

Madagascar wagtail, on nest at the reception

24th September, Villageois project (optional walk)

Mossy leaf-tailed gecko, blending into the lichen-covered trunk

Madagascar tree boa, confusingly asleep on the ground

Brown lemurs

Common newtonia

Red-tailed newtonia

Madagascar nigthjar

24th September, 2nd night walk

Green stick insect

Goodman's muse lemurs (x2, fleetingly)

Woolly lemur, eyes in the distance

Short-horned chameleon, juvenile male

Green tree frog

Yellow-fingered tree frog

25th September, Mantadia

Black-and-white ruffed lemur

Indri

Diademed sifaka

Red-bellied lemur

Greater vasa parrot

Madagascar blue pigeon

Madagascar paradise flycatchers, male white-backed, female & juvenile

Green day gecko

Red-fronted coua

Clouded mother-of-pearl butterfly

Madagascar satyr

Assorted pansy butterflies

Caterpillars of the green lady butterfly

Funnel web spider

Lined day gecko, at the lunch stop

26th September, Lemur Island

27th September, Arboretum de Antsokay - Celia (the giggler)

Green-capped coua

Madagascar magpie robin

Madagascar fody

Madagascar kestrel, pair (female having been brought a gecko by the male)

Common jery (henceforth known as the "Tom & Jerry" bird)

Iguanid lizards

Crested drongo

Madagascar lesser cuckoo

Small gecko (Phelsuma mutabilis)

Warty chameleon, male

Namaqua dove, female

Steve's carrot baobab

Sakalava weavers

Pied crows

Black-winged stilt

28th September, Spiny Forest - Relaxa and his spotters

Greater vasa parrot

Madagascar sparrowhawk

Stripe-throated jery

Fighting cricket

Crested coua

Hook-billed vanga on its nest

Pied crow

Long-tailed ground roller (endemic to this small area)

Sub-desert mesite (endemic to this small area)

Madagascar turtle dove

Madagascar fody

Madagascar bulbul

Petter's Sportive lemur

28th September, Reniala Mangroves - Sala

Black-winged stilt

Yellow-billed kite (aka black kite)

Giant swallowtail butterfly

Madagascar cisticola

Green-backed heron

Grey-headed lovebirds

Whimbrel

3-banded plover

Kittlitz plover

Madagascar plover

Greenshank

Mosquitoes galore

29th September, Zombitse Forest - Lucien

Oustalet's chameleon (aka Malagasy giant chameleon), male

Brilliant pansy butterfly

Zombitse (Hubbard's) sportive lemur

Lesser vasa parrot

Hook-billed vanga

Madagascar buttonquails

Verreaux sifaka (x8 + baby)

Crested drongo

Tiny gecko = Phelsuma Mutabilis

Giant coua (plus two by the lunch stop)

Madagascar partridge (by the road while driving to Jardin du Roy)

30th September, Isalo Gorge - Naina

No pointing allowed

Madagascar bee-eater

Madagascar Kestrel

Madagascan ridged frog

Alpine swifts

Parrot vine flower

Praying mantis

Madagascar green sunbird, male

Stick insect, female

Black crab scorpion

Snout bug

Ring-tailed lemurs, in the campsite

Madagascar ground boa, male

Madagascan Paradise flycatcher, female

Madagascan cactus

Benson's rock thrush, female

Frog-mimic moth

Madagascar fody nest

Madagascar mannakin

"Bathing beauties" in the black and blue lagoons

Golden orb spider

Benson's rock thrush, male

Verreaux sifaka, in the campsite

Madagascar hoopoe

White-browed owl

Scops owl, western

Brilliant pansy butterfly

Malachite kingfishers

1st October, travelling

Oustalet's chameleon crossing the road

1st October, Anjaha community project - Daniel

Madagascar bee-eaters

Oustalet's chameleons, one enjoying being fed cricket kebabs

Ring-tailed lemurs, at the border of two territories

Stick insects

Madagascar coucal, male

1st October, further travelling

Madagascar hoopoe

Hammerkop nest (bird also seen flying elsewhere)

Dimorphic egret, dark morph

2nd October, Ranomanafana evening/night walk - Rudi, Edweesh

Blue coua

Barron's mantella frog

Blue-egged chameleon, juvenile

Rufus mouse lemur

O'Shaughnessy's chameleon

Deceptive short-nosed chameleon

Brown tree frog, unspecified

3rd October, Ranomanafana - Rudi, Edweesh

Madagascan pygmy kingfisher

Magpie robin, male

Red-fronted brown lemur

Short-nosed chameleon

Red forest rat

Golden bamboo lemur

Brown tree frog

Mossy stick insect

Satanic leaf-tailed gecko

Wild coffee plants

Milne-Edwards sifaka

Spectacled tetraka/greenbul, on nest

Velvet Asity, male (non-breeding plumage) and female

Red-bellied lemurs

3rd October, Setam Lodge grounds

Giraffe-necked weevils, nest building

3rd October, Ranomanafana evening/night walk - Rudi, Edweesh

Blue-egged chameleon, juvenile

Rufoud mouse lemur

Flap-necked chameleon

Deceptive short-nosed chameleon

4th October, Ranomanafana - Rudi, Edweesh

Crag martin colony, next to the bridge

Jewelled beetle, unspecified

Long-billed green sunbird, female

Praying mantis

Madagascar lesser cuckoo

Greater bamboo lemur, father & daughter feeding 

Pill millipede

Tanala memorial stones

Leaf frog, pale, unspecified

Satanic leaf-tailed gecko, juvenile

Eastern woolly lemurs

Pollen's vanga

Red forest rat

Plated lizard

Parson's chameleons, at the homestead of Hery's friend

Antanarivo paddy fields

Black heron

Grey heron

Squacco heron

Overall holiday satisfaction (Madagascar Discovery Small Group set departure, 16 September 2018): Excellent.

Mantadia Lodge: Excellent in all respects

Le Paradisier: excellent location, good in other respects. 

Relais la Reine: Excellent.

Betsileo Country Lodge: excellent meals, good in other respects.

Thermal Hotel: Excellent location, service and comfort. Good meals and facilities. 

Plumeria Hotel: good. Very comfortable.

Harry, the guide for the duration of the (Madagascar Wildlife Discovery 02 September 2018 departure) was outstanding. Overall satisfaction: Excellent. 

Mantadia Lodge was spectacular. 

Relais des Plateaux has a very handy locaton for the airport.

Les Dunes d'Ifaty was fantastic.

Jardin du Roy was wonderful.

Betsileo Country Lodge was only an overnight stop.

Setam Lodge by comparison with the other hotels, was disappointing. Wonderful location. 

This holiday to Madagascar was a wonderful and amazing experienxce. In terms of a delivery, as a Wildlife Discovery tour, it was absolutely on the money. 

With Harry and the local guides and our drivers, we got to see just about everything we could have seen and were amazingly well looked after. Having never done a tour like this, I found it quite 'full on' bt I'm delighted about what I got to see and do. 

Thank you. 

'Good advice about what would work for us in our first visit to Madagascar, and in the time that we had availabile from Helen Kennedy. 

Full and prompt answers to our questions prior to leaving (from Helen). 

Excellent, smooth organisation of a full-on itinerary (RN7 and Andasibe)

Exceptional guide in Miakatra - who with the driver (Mparany) were excellent. Local guides in the national parks and reserves varied from good to excellent. 

'Our guide Toky was excellent, and a match for the local guides at spotting wildlife. The driver, Ony, was very careful. We always felt safe. 

Passport control at Ivato airport is a daunting experience! 

Overall we had an excellent time and the trip more than met our expectations. We would not hesitate to recommend Rainbow Tours'.

'Dear Derek,

For the last few weeks I have been meaning to email you to thank you for organising our holiday to Madagascar.  Finally I'm getting round to it!  We had a wonderful time, absolutely loved it.  It is without doubt the most incredible place I've ever been to - definitely worth the thirty-year wait.  There were too many highlights to mention them all, but we loved the rich variety of wildlife in Andasibe (watching the indri was magical), seeing the vivacious ring-tails in Isalo and Anja, and having Parson's and stump-tailed chameleons crawling up our arms.  My husband even managed to find a baby tenrec in Mantadia, which both the guide and I had walked straight past.  Aside from the fascinating wildlife, I never realised just how spectacular the scenery is.  I knew Isalo would be something special, but I had no idea that the surroundings at Anja and Ambalavao would be so breathtaking.  It was worth staying at La Varangue Betsileo for the beautiful views alone.  I'm itching to go back - although my husband has forbidden it for the time being, due to the cost! - and explore the north and west.  Hopefully it won't take another thirty years.

Thank you for all your help and for putting up with my many questions.  I was worrying about so many things beforehand but now I realise I really didn't need to!  The holiday was superbly organised and I would definitely recommend you to anyone wanting to visit Madagascar.  We've filled in the feedback form over the weekend, so you should receive that any day now.

Best wishes,

Victoria'

'Overall holiday satisfaction (22 October 2017 Madagascar Wildlife Discovery Small Group tour): 'Completely exceeded our expectations. 

Andasibe Lemurs Lodge: all brilliant apart from the mattress, as hard as a board, obviously brand new rubber mattresses.

Les Dunes Ifaty: Lovely place, perfect setting.

Varangue de Betsileo: Small, intimate, perfect. Excellent

Plumeria: excellent. 

The information itself was well detailed and wonderfully helpful, the holiday was well organised, incredibly interesting and far exceeded our expectations. Our guide Gersica was excellent, the hotels good and the food outstanding - apart from the dreaded bed at Andasibe Lemurs Lodge all was utterly perfect. - Thank you!'

'Gersica is an absolute star - knowledge of everything from culture to flora and fauna and any Madagascar topic inbetween. Nothing was too much trouble for her; always a smile on her face. The best guide we have ever had the pleasure to have been led by on any tour we have ever been on. 

Overall holiday satisfaction (07 - 22 October 2017 Madagascar Wildlife Discovery Small group tour): Excellent

We appreciate that we signed up to a hectic schedule  but it would have been ideal to weave a little more free time into the programme. We recognise however that there were often great distances to cover, which makes this difficult. 

Overall, a very comprehensive tour of a fascinating island. We went expecting an adventure - and were not disappointed!

Thanks finally to Derek for the excellent support and advice; and to Gersica and her team for their hard work and their dedication to make such a memorable tour' 

'Our overall guide Gersica was absolutely brilliant (Madagascar Wildlife Discovery Tour 07 - 22 October 2017 departure). Everything was well organised. Gersica ensured that everything ran smoothly and was extremely competent.

Overall holiday satisfaction: Excellent

Andasibe Lemurs Lodge: Comfort, service and location: Excellent. Meals and facilities: Good. 

Thermal Hotel Ranomafana: Comfort, service and location: Excellent. Meals and facilities: Good'

'Hi Craig

Just a quick note, Want to tell you what an amazing trip we had.  (Madagascar Wildlife Discovery Tour: 07 - 22 October 2017 departure)  Not a holiday more an adventure!   All the things you said about the trip were true.  It is not a destination for everyone.  The journeys are long and tiring but necessary to see the different landscapes and wildlife.  We had a few issues with some of the accommodation but nothing we did not expect thanks to your accurate briefing before we booked.    We had a lovely group overall but a couple of them were struggling....   All in all everyone got something out of the trip....    We had absolutely no problems with it and indeed felt that we had a real adventure.    Our guide, Gersica was superb.  She was professional, charming, knowledgeable, helpful and patient throughout the trip'.

I am totally in love with Lemurs!!  See attached picture (one of thousands).

Thanks again for all your help

Very Best Regards

Mandy Upton'

Feedback report:

We had a fantastic time in Madagascar. It is a challenging country to visit in some ways. The infrastructure is a 'work in progress'. I think travellers should be encouraged to do some research before going there. It is a very special place and anyone who has an interest in wildlife and the natural world generally, should go there and soon. 

Our experience with Rainbow Tours was very good. Craig Kaufman gave us a very good briefing as to what to expect before we booked. It turned out to be very accurate on tour, so nothing disappointed us. 

The choice of itinerary turned out to be a perfect introduction to Madagascar. We saw a variety of landscapes and a good number of different species of fauna and flora. We saw 22 different lemurs, 10 different chameleons, many birds, lizards, frogs, insects, snakes, and a few other mammals including a Vontsira mena (ringtailed mongoose) and a Tenrec. 

Journeys were very long but interesting and necessary to cover the different habitats. 

Accommodation was better than expected in some places. Food was good but too many three-course meals with large portions. The tour guide Gersica was exceptional. She was always cheerful, patient, helpful and knowledgeable. On our walks through the reserves she was as good as spotting and identifying things as the local guides were. Her choice off local guides was excellent. They did everything they could to ensure we all had good views of anything they found. 

No complaints re: tour content; we had a great time and a real life experience!'

I am totally in love with Lemurs!!  See attached picture (one of thousands).

Thanks again for all your help

Very Best Regards

Mandy Upton'

'Service from tour operator: excellent. (Madagascar Wildlife Discovery Tour 02 September 2017 departure)

Jessica was outstanding. Knowledgeable, charming, efficient. 

Les Dunes d'Ifaty: very comfortable, beautiful setting.

Relais la Reine: Excellent. Lovely gardens.

Aux Bouganivillees, Ambalavao: basic but clean, adequate and friendly

Thermal Hotel: comfort of room good. Meals excellent. Facilities and serivce average. No lounge or bar; no easy-chair in room.'

'The (Madagascar Wildlife Discovery Small Group Tour, 02 September 2017 departure) was wonderful and lived up to expectations. The guide Gersica was fantastic - I can't praise her enough. She is extremely knowledgeable and enthusiastic, and very well organised. She even organised a birthday cake for me at our last dinner. Both bus drivers were excellent as were the local guides, in particular the guide at Ranomafana. He was also a photographer and kindly took excellent photos for everyone in the group.

I seem to have made a lot of comments about comfy chairs but when you're travelling alone its nice to have somwhere comfortable to sit either in the room or preferably in the lounge area rather than on a bed. Although Aux Bougainvillees was not as smart as all the other hotels, I enjoyed staying there for 1 night - its too easy to remain in a 'bubble' on thes tours. 

I wouldn't hesitate to recommend this tour to anyone'. 

'This (Madagascar Wildlife Extravaganza small group tour) is the best holiday/expedition we have had in a long time. Congratulations to Rainbow Tours. 

Our guyides deserve a big accolade. Gersica is a gem you need to treasure - always smiling and cheerful with seamless organisational abilities - and Lucienne is so knowledgeable and enthusiastic - they made a perfect partnership which contributed greatly to the success of this holiday. 

The quality of the food we had in Madagascar was excellent and way above expectations'. 

'Dear Derek

We chose Madagascar as a joint destination with ourselves and the Keens and it was Chrissy who did the research on which might be the best travel company to use. She found Rainbow Tours, and in fact they used the company some years ago for a trip in Africa.  To our minds her choice has been excellent and we finish the trip with a high regard for the company.  

All the arrangements have worked wonderfully well.  We have been very pleased indeed with our guides and drivers and the hotel accommodation has been right on the button with one exception.   More specific comments are below.  We have rated each hotel out of 10 and allocated the rating recognising the type of hotel we were in (e.g. Setam Lodge and Relais de la Reine are in different categories and marked accordingly)

Arrival and first night: The flight from Paris was fine and we were safely greeted by Vola and Mamy on arrival and installed with no trouble at the Relais des Plateaux - the ideal close to airport location. It provided exactly the service that was needed.  8/10

Day one and Couleur Cafe.  This is an excellent choice of hotel. Charming style and ambience, beautiful well maintained gardens and a high standard of service from the staff.  The decor was wonderfully amusing and the whole style of the place suited all four of us admirably.  We got our first taste of Ti Punch here and continued with them for a good part of the trip.  10/10

Days 2 - 4 Setam Lodge. The drive from Antananarivo through Antsirabe to Setam provided us with the most wonderful scenery despite the distressing poverty which is such a feature of Malagasy life. We were struck by people's industriousness as they went about the business of keeping body and soul together and by the smiles and friendliness we encountered.
Setam Lodge was good forest accommodation although the food was pretty unexciting. We suspect that it was probably the best available anywhere in the area, so no complaints from us. And they managed to put a comet moth just outside the dining room for us to admire and wonder at!  8/10

We enjoyed our first proper rainforest walks and were rewarded with some good lemur sightings.  The second of the two days was particularly enjoyable as there were very few other people in our area of the forest and so we were not fighting for viewing vantage points.  Chantal, the local guide, and her spotter did a great job of finding us some wonderful sights including a beautiful painted frog and the giraffe "bug". It was fascinating to observe how they listened and watched in order to show us the range of forest wildlife.

Day 5    Anja Park and Varangue de Betsileo.  Needless to say the ring tail lemurs of Anja Parc  stole our hearts, with lots of "Ooohs' and "Aaaahs" as they leapt around us.  With respect to the accommodation here we suspect you are in a bit of a bind with little else available within easy driving distance.  

To be honest while the location was very attractive and the rooms spacious and clean, our hosts were clearly doing everything on the cheap.    The only bedroom chairs masquerading as bedside tables, no water glasses (or water for that matter) and a measly bit of soap in the bathroom, two wire hangers, no curtains on the glass paned doors so that to have any privacy it was necessary to close the door and window shutters, leaving the room in the dark. In response to  the question "do you have a hairdryer?",  our hostess said that as she had short hair she did not see the need for one!  Dinner was a poor affair and the only wine available virtually undrinkable.  The final straw was that they charged for water at breakfast and left the offer of eggs until the last minute when we were rising from the table. We turned them down politely.

Recognising that there is probably not a lot of choice as to hotels, we wonder if Rainbow Tours were to have a discussion with them they might up their game.   Even if they were to charge 10 euros more a night that would be a reasonable trade off to get some of the amenities which ought to be standard. Rating 3/10

Days 6 - 10  Relais de la Reine.  Well,  what a wonderful contrast! A beautiful hotel, the most glorious gardens, charming staff, great food, Ti Punches some of the best.  The only thing to spoil it all was the news that Trump had won!!  Rating 10/10
Here too our walks were splendid and the Black Pool that we found at the top of the ravine was paradise. A great stay.   And then on to the Zombitse Transition Forest which too was wonderful.  The sifakas performed magnificently for us.  The Arboretum visit which followed was also very interesting and much enjoyed especially by the Keens who are much more plantsmen than we are.  

The overnight stop in Tulear was fine (Rating 8/10) and we were very sorry to say farewell to Vola and Mamy (sp?). They were a splendid team and really took trouble to make sure that we were well looked after.  Mamy drove superbly and at no time did we have the slightest sense that he was not in full control of our safety. It was also touching to see that he quite clearly looked out for Vola as well!  She demonstrated liveliness, humour, a strong sense of responsibility for our well-being and good knowledge in responding to our questions. In particular she was very good in controlling things on the occasions that we stopped and left the car, making sure the begging children did not crowd us and that each got his fair share of sweets or bread.  

Days 11 - 14 Vakhona Lodge After the somewhat hair-raising drive from Tana to Vakhona (one of us felt really quite uncomfortable with this) we actually had the most magnificent stay here. Our new guide Stephan and driver Nyna were again charming and the local guide we had here (Sacha?) was very knowledgeable indeed. We really enjoyed him and his little twists of gentle humour. They went to a great deal of trouble to make sure we were not in crowded spots and yet still managed to get some wonderful lemur, indri and bird sightings for us.  

The lodge itself was very well appointed, beautifully set in the forest, and the food was good - and of course the Ti Punches!  We left with great reluctance, but at least we had the up close and personal experience of the lemurs just before we left!  Rating 9/10

So finally on to the last week at the Ravintsara.  Once more a really wonderful hotel, charming staff whose only wish is to make sure we had a fully relaxed and comfortable stay.  The massage and spa treatments were of excellent quality, food was good and varied and the view from our bungalow over the channel was peaceful.  The gardens were absolutely beautiful. A perfect end to our stay  so we go back to London and France with great reluctance but feeling well set up for the winter.  Rating 10/10

Thank you for your help in arranging this trip for us.  We will remember it with pleasure for many years to come.

If you would like to contact us regarding any of these comments please don't hesitate to do so.  In the meantime our very good wishes to you

Hilary and Kazia' (part of Keen party)

'We undoubtedly feel we made the right choice of tour operator, paricularly in respect of accommodation, guides and logistics. Local knowledge shone through. Quality of all these factors added greatly to the enjoyment of the holiday. Very good to have included Tsimanampetsotsa National Park (also Herilala's favourite). We felt things got steadily better the further south-west we got. Where else do you offer good holidays? 

No question - we will definitely strongly recommend Rainbow Tours if anyone asks us about Madagascar. Thank you for being the very helpful and informative details and for the copy of the Bradt Guide'

'We enjoyed this holiday greatly. The itinerary was good but it was the local guide Mike who did a fantastic job on the ground to make the tour work seamlessly. Some of our fellow travellers were very experienced world travellers but we found their expectations to be very high to the point of being ridiculous eg complaining that beer was 'not cold enough'. Overall a fantastic holiday - Thanks!'

'Hi Derek,

Ref; Madagascar Adventure 2016.

We returned home safely on Wednesday 16^th November from our Madagascar adventure; our can we thank you for organising such a wonderful trip for us. From the start to finish we did not experience an issue with the itinerary you had organised for our needs. 

Our guide and driver were superb, throughout the trip, our guide La-la and driver Dude. Dudes driving was superb considering the condition of the roads at times, I will never complain again about the pot holes of the UK roads. Our driver was very careful never took his eyes off the road, and we never experienced a back jarring moment no matter what the condition on the road was in. Our guide was superb, and his knowledge of wild life was most helpful. On many occasions, I would borrow the wildlife books he had in his position to study the creatures we saw daily.  It was also a pleasure that La-la had an avid interest in insects as well has the larger creatures we would encounter. This pleased him, he told us most of his clients are only interested in seeing Lemurs, reptiles or birds. At times we would both be on our knees photographing the smallest creatures we could find. We would then cross references them in the text books for accurate ID. We could not fault the accommodation you had booked us apart from minor teething troubles, we were warned of before leaving,  missing  sink plugs dodgy electrics. It was quite a blessing to  be shut off from the outside world with hardly any Mobile or Internet connections at times.

Relais des Plateaux 1night and day room was most convenient for the airport. Staff helpful our rooms and the food in the restaurant were good.

Vakona Forest Lodge was a nice setting food plentiful and enjoyable a nice start for our incredible journey through Madagascar. Our lodge was elevated. Iit was nice to sit outside and admire the scenery and many birds and other creatures in the vicinity after our day's trip out in the National park. We also enjoyed the night walks at this location and the many strange nocturnal creatures we would encounter. Friday 4^th November, it poured of rain all day and the only day we experienced rain on our trip. However, the rain did not stop us from getting out and seeing some amazing wildlife.

Couleur Café 1 night, what a stunning setting looking over the plains and mountains, in the distance, and too be able to relax in the swimming pool after our journey. The French couple who owns the hotel  are most helpful and try their best to make you welcome. The food is ok but limited, but this did not spoil our stay here. It was nice wondering around the grounds taking photos of the many different types of birds and butterflies around the grounds. The electricity here is limited for use only at evenings. The hot water is from Solar thermal and appears to fluctuate in temperature at times. However, we were not disappointed and enjoyed our one-night  stay.

Setam Lodge, 3 nights

The lodge is set in an elevated position looking out over the forest area with good views. All the staff here are more than helpful, and the food was good. Our guide seemed to know nearly everybody at each destination. He often became our translator with the non-English speaking staff. With his advice, we would most times try the local delicacies on the menu. At each national park or reserve we visited, our guide had handpicked and booked in advance his favourite park guide and scout. Not once were we disappointed with his choice their local knowledge and knowing exactly where to find each creature are amazing.

Varangue du Betsileo 1 night,

After many hours on the road, we arrived at our destination around 5pm. Our bungalow for the stay was huge and comfortable. Like most of the places we have stayed at the bathroom sink did not hold water, this fell into minor comparison with the way some of the Madagascar people have to live. Some of the conditions their people live are truly third world. We have been to many countries around the world in our time. However, some of the living conditions we encountered along the way were an eye-opening experience in its self. No one should have to live under these conditions in the 21^st century. Madagascar as something so unique from the rest of the world it should be a top destination to visit. The country appears to have the wealth beneath its feet and not capitalising on it. We found most of the Madagascar people warm, friendly and helpful.

Relais de la Reine 2 nights,

What a delight it was to stay at this marvellous French owned hotel it was a dream, the accommodation is splendid, the food great. A nice place to relax for a couple of days after a long day’s journey. The view of the surrounding area from the lounge is magnificent. The hotel seems to be cut into the actual rock face. There were many steep steps, so a torch with you after dark was essential. The pre-dinner-free  bar snacks with your drinks was a nice touch. My only fault would be the steps down to the lower dining area are open with no hand rail. The lodge we stayed in was stunning and the ground surrounding the hotel with its own abundant wildlife was a delight. I and our guide ventured out for a night walk around the grounds with the intentions of spotting the Eastern Scopes Owl. We were not disappointed with the guide’s scopes owl call recording, within a short time, the Scopes owl swooped in within a few feet from us. An amazing experience the owl is so tiny even in comparison to the UK’s Little Owl.

Le Paradisier 2 nights,

We have arrived in heaven for 2 nights; Individual bungalows were lovely. You had your own veranda and own outdoor chairs and hammock overlooking the sea only a few meters away. We missed the sunset at Relais de la Reine due to cloudy weather conditions. Sitting on the veranda the first night watching the sun go down was truly stunning. Our bungalow was large and comfortable, although we did feel a little vulnerable to nature. No worries the bungalow was sprayed at evenings with insect iced and mosquito net also standard for the bed. Main area, including restaurant/reception/pool area all of high standard. Helpful staff, although English speaking limited. The restaurant and a terrace overlooking the sea were a delight it made you wish you'd like to stay on forever. Our guide recommended we depart for Zombitse National Park at 5am 12^th November to avoid the heat during the day and other tourists. And the best opportunity to see as many birds has been possible before it got too hot. This turned out to be good advice we had a fantastic morning bird watching and seeing other creatures. By the time we returned to the hotel at around 10. 30am the temperature was getting unbearable. It was nice to relax for the rest of the day before we joined up with our driver and guide in the evening for a farewell dinner together.

Everything about this trip has been memorable from our visit to the destination show at Earls Court and visiting Rainbow Tours stand and speaking to your friendly helpful staff.

Having Derek Schuurman with is extensive knowledge of Madagascar organising our trip for us. The trip has been tiring at times trekking through the undergrowth and up the steep slopes. However, the rewards out way the disadvantages thousand times. I will be the rest of 2016 categorising the many different species of wildlife and fauna we encountered on our journey into Madagascar.

We cannot praise Rainbow Tours and all their staff at home and abroad that have truly made this a holiday of a lifetime, an experience we will never forget.

If you wish to use any part of this article, you have our permission to do so.

We look forward to travelling with Rainbow Tours again.

Kindest regards Steve & Pat Garten' 

'Excellent holiday.  We had out own 4x4, guide and driver and all were excellent. There is mention in this form of car and guide but no mention of driver: our lives were in his hands for 10 days and he was excellent, both in driving, handling our luggage, always opening the doors for us. Drivers are an integral and important part of all holidays; please give them recognition. The holiday was excellent in all respects. The changes we made to the advertised tour because of our ages (79 and 70) worked out very well. Would recommend your company to anyone - and we saw loads of lemurs!!!'

'Jessica was absolutely excellent. She always made sure everyone got the most out of the trip, according to their abilities. Setam Lodge had lovely food - the best on the trip! Another day in the park (Ranomafana) would have been good'. 

Hi Derek

Some feedback for you....

First of all, another fabulous trip for so many different reasons....

The flight out - what a lovely surprise to travel Premium Economy, what a difference that made, not just in the comfort and service aspects but ultimately getting through Tana airport in 30 minutes rather than over 2 hours - thank you so much.

The Relais des Plateau is such a refreshing first and last stop with no worries about getting to and from the airport and so comfortable.

All accommodation was great - hard to choose a favourite, very good choices.

To our delight plenty of lemurs and birds and absolutely fascinating travelling through such varied landscapes, villages and townships. Thought provoking to compare their world to ours, humbling to see how they manage their lives, always with a smile on their face. It has left us with much to think about.

The itinerary was great and the whole trip went very smoothly. we are always singing your praises to our friends and family and I am sure we will have other trips with Rainbow Tours.

So once again, thank you very much for a great experience.

Chris & June

'Gersica was superb and success of the holiday was all down to her. She is a treasure! Air Madagascar were for once very reliable. The pace of the tour and some distances travelled seemed unrelenting towards the end but we would not have missed any of it!.

We loved Les Dunes (Ifaty). Chilled out in bungalow overlooking beach. The Malagasy traditional meal at Setam Lodge was the food highlight of the tour. 

Gersica could not have been better organised, more considerate or more attentive. She is one of the best tour leaders we have experienced in over 30 years of travel on small group holidays'. 

'We loved the country and the people. This has been a fantastic trip. Our itinerary couldn't have been better. I really liked the pacing. Mora mora......  I wish that we could help this country protect their precious natural resources and improve the quality of life for the people. There is so much potential here.

Thank you again for making this a trip of a lifetime.

All my best,

LP'

'Overall satisfaction: Excellent. Relais des Plateaux is a very good hotel.

Gite d'Ampijoroa (Ankarafantsika National Park) has excellent location, good service, food and facilities; average comfort.
(Basic)

Royal Palissandre Hotel & Spa excellent food and service. Too posh for us.

Vakona Forest Lodge: excellent location, meals and facilities. Lovely setting but felt a bit damp and cold.

Thermal Hotel Ranomafana: excellent comfort, good service, location and meals. Beautiful hotel but electricity kept running out.

La Varangue de Betsileo: excellent in all respects. Very nice people, looked after us very well.

Relais la Reine: Very nice, lovely area.

La Mira: excellent in all respects. Very nice and relaxing.

The guides were excellent especially Bel-Aviv and his driver Doudou, who were with us for most of the trip. All were very helpful, knowledgeable and friendly'.

'We had a wonderful holiday - thank you. Our guide Gersica was fantastic - one of the best we have ever had and we have been travelling for years! She went out of her way to ensure each individual's needs were met and is so knowledgeable, too'. 

'We had a great holiday - your itinerary was super - thanks!.Highlights: Relais de la Reine Hotel + Isalo National Park. Sheer variety of terrain and habitats. Quality of the guides, in particular Djato and the driver Barry. Exceptional passion and dedication. Local guides at Andasibe-Mantadia, Isalo and the Ifaty Spiny Forest'

'We had such an amazing time in Madagascar. We were in awe of the beautiful scenery and abundant wildlife. We found the people to be friendly and welcoming.

Maison Gallieni: we had a wonderful first night here. Lovely dinner.

Couleur Cafe: excellent comfort, service, location and facilites. The evening meal was goog, breakfast buffet was not as good.

Setam Lodge: Service, location, meals and faciliities excellent. Comfortable rooms, could do with an update/ renovation but pleased that they were dry and not damp. It was also cold in Ranomafana and they had a heater which was useful.

Relais la Reine d'Isalo: It was a special hotel set in a beautiful landscape. The lady owner of the hotel was very friendly and appreciative.

Anakao Ocean Lodge: surpassed our expectations. Beautiful lodge on a very secluded beach. Wonderful meals created from whatever fish/seafood was caught fresh each day - we really liked this ethos especially as it helps the local fishermen in the nearby village. The speedboat transfers there/back added to the experience.

Vakona Forest Lodge: main building was lovely. A great setting for breakfast and dinner. It was a disappointment that the rooms were not of the same stanard and that the staff could not understand why why we were not happy with a damp room.

We really appeciated Derek getting in touch with us and our guide Njiva when we were having difficulties with or internal flights and for checking that we were OK and that we were still happy with the service from our guide. We were also grateful to Njiva fror staying in Tulear another night and making sure we were on the flight back to Antananarivo the next day. He was wonderful at the airport and and organised everything for us there so that we did not have to worry. We could not have asked for better service from our guide at the airport. We feel that we may not have made it onto the flight from Tulear if it were not for him! '

'Njiva was a fantastic guide - thoroughly recommend him. Driver, Dodo, was also very good. Overall holiday satisfaction (Classic Madagascar overland: the RN7 route): excellent. 

Vakona Forest Lodge is a lovely place but they wanted us to leave the bar/seating area by around 9pm. 

Setam Lodge: good in all respects. Location excellent.

La Varangue de Betsileo: Service and comfort: excellent. Location, meals and facilities all good. 

Relais la Reine d'Isalo: excellent.

Moringa Hotel: good in all respects; excellent meals.

Princesse Bora Lodge: Comfort, meals and facilities good; service and location excellent.'

'Gersica was very helpful (on the 15 October 2015 Madagascar Discovery Tour) and gave everybody lots of attention. All tours were well organised and guided by her. Overall holiday satisfaction: Excellent. Great experience to see all these animals. Excellent accommodation, delicuous food and perfectly guided.

Eulophiella Lodge is beautifully lotedwit all he plants and flowers.

Berenty Lodge: excellent in all respects. Nice to see all these animals up close.

Les Dunes d'Ifaty: well located at the coast. Beautiful room and excellent service. Nice pool.

Isalo Rock Lodge: beautiful bungalows well located in the area.

The tour was great. We enjoyed every day. Every day and every walk was really special. Thanks (to) Gersica we got a perfect impression and a good experience of Madagascar'.

'Our guide Gersica was excellent throughout. (15 October 2015 Rainbow Tours Small Group Madagascar Wildlife & Discovery Tour) She was efficient, very knowledgeable, and was particularly helpful in overcoming individual difficulties whether needing to re-arrange accommodation, transport etc or medical needs. Without her energy and constant attention to detail, the holiday would not have gone as well as it did. Gersica was an excellent guide who went the extra mile to make the trip enjoyable for everyone'
 

'Wonderful holiday in fantastic country. Most hotels/lodges far better than expected and food very good. Accommodation everywhere was clean and comfortable and could not fault service provided throughout the trip.

Gersica, our main guide throughout the trp was excellent. Extremely knowledgeable, very good English and managed the group efficiently. There were a few problems with people feeling unwell but Gersica was extremely helpful and supportive. She accommodated any requests made by individuals and was attentive to our needs as a group at all times. I was particularly impressed by how well organised Gersica wasdujrin transfers at airports and her efficency in checking in bags and processing documentation. Could not have asked for a more experienced and professional tour leader. She is an excellent representative for Rainbow Tours'   (15 October 2015 Madagascar Small Group Wildlife Discovery Small Group Tour).

'Overall holiday satisfaction: Excellent.  (26 September 2015 Madagascar Wildlife Small Group set departure).  Vegetarian food was excellent everywhere. This is partly due to Gersica's diligence in ringing ahead to each hotel. Thanks again for a most memorable trip'

"Our impression is very positive. We hit most target species of bird and saw plenty of lemurs and a few frogs and snakes and even a swimming bat! Literally, a mass of photos. Perhaps the biggest shock is the loss of local habitat to the rapidly growing population. An enormous amount of work for the government to do on conservation before it is too late. The country would lose a vital incentive for tourism and much-needed income. It is worthy to note that the overall adventure was successful and we thank you for drawing up the itinerary. One is very much dependent on a good guide in Madagascar. There is no doubt that our guides Lala and Fen, 'knew their stuff'. Above all they were good company. Its a nice touch despite the early flight departure times, the guides waited until we cleared departures. They have been well selected. The best local guide was the last guide called Stephan who knew Ranomafana like the back of his hand. He explained that he helped Ian Sinclair with the habitat detail for the current bird guide on Madagascar and its surrounding islands. So, quite an adventure for all of us. Many thanks."

Dear Derek

More than six weeks later but we still wanted to let you know we had a beautiful birding tour through Madagascar. Of course it was not the best time of the year (August) but I estimate we still saw 80%+ of the endemic birds we could have expected to see in Sep/Nov. The people from Za Tours were wonderful; (the guide) Mia was very nice, interesting and cheerful guy. We had a great holiday.

Regards, Edial & Fransje, Amsterdam

'Thanks for a really great holiday. (20 August 2015 Small Group Wildlife Discovery Tour). We covered a lot of ground but saw just a glimpse of the diversity that is Madagascar. The coach driver (for most of our time) was really outstanding with his concentration and sympathetic driving. But the Silver Challenge Cup must go to Gersica, whose knowledge, patience, sensitivity, sense of humour and capacity for hard work knows no bounds. She is tops!'

Thank you for some excellent itinerary planning.  We had a fantastic time – amazing landscapes, unique flora and fauna, great guides and drivers and lovely Malagasy people.

Our guide, Stefan, for the Andasibe/Perinet trip knew his birds and pointed out a Hammerkop in flight on the road out from Tana.  Saw a lovely pair of Collared nightjar in Mantadia with the local guide, Jack. 

Had some laughs with guide Michel on the way to Camp Amoureux. Michel didn’t know the western birds, our driver didn’t know the birds and we had no knowledge whatsoever of the birds, so we stopped in the middle of the road with a whole flock of weavers in front of the vehicle and had no idea what we were looking at. 

By the time we’d left Camp Amoureux though, with the help of the Sinclair field guide, we’d identified several couas, the hoopoe (knew that one already) and a few other species that were confirmed for us later.  We’re having the Sinclair and Langrand book sent to Michel.  He was a lot of fun anyway and the local guides mostly filled in any missing gaps for him.

And we saw our Fosa – yay!  She was hunting Verreaux’s sifakas in the trees in Kirindy Forest. Tony had remained behind on the track to photograph some interesting bark and the fosa ran up a nearby tree chasing the sifakas we’d just left.  Peter took a few pics on the run.  We were sooo excited!

Isalo NP was breathtaking and Isalo Rock Lodge quite luxurious accommodation in a simply stunning location.

Spiny forests in the south-west were fascinating and Elior ensured that our local guide found us the most sought-after birds in Reniala and Ifaty NP’s.  It was almost as exciting finding the Long-tailed ground-roller as it was seeing the fosa.  A pair was nesting and we have pics of the nest hollow.  We were fortunate also to see the Sub-desert mesite in Reniala and the Madagascar plover in the saltpans.

Although we prefer to see wildlife in its natural habitat, it was just magic feeling the tiny velvety hands of the lemurs at Lemur Island and experiencing the lightness with which they land (not like our possums – they’re elephants by comparison!).  We didn’t wish to see the caged fosas, so remained on the front section of the island with the lemurs.

There was a beautiful view of the city from Lokanga and the hotel has been lovingly maintained, but it’s probably not as suitable for a family as Relais des Plateaux.  The stairs are definitely a challenge for someone with dicky knees, which Jim has (not your fault – we didn’t think to mention it).

We found the extent of the poverty throughout the country both confronting and heartbreaking, but are planning to directly sponsor two little boys from Soavimbahoaka orphanage.

Africa is on our bucket list and we’ll incorporate another visit to Madagascar with that one when we get around to it.

Our trip to Madagascar quickly evolved from a birding/wildlife trip to so much more, thanks to Rija. I couldn't ask for a better guide. His knowledge of  and, more important, love of Madagascar culture and wildlife enriched our trip so much. He is just an excellent ambassador for his country. He was also extremely sensitive and responsive to our needs and occasional changes in itinerary and schedules. Andy, our driver, was also extremely competent and continually cheerful. All other connections and arrangements through Za tours went perfectly without any hitches. It was a very moving journey,  which I am still processing. I have just finished editing our 2600 photos (after a major mishap with the first 40 hours of editing) and will post them soon through my facebook page. We learned so much, and I've been inspired to read and learn even more since coming home. I have also been considering opportunities here for supporting conservation efforts in Madagascar. One possibility might be working with NGOs or California government to promote carbon projects for Madagascar, an area I was doing a little work on before I retired. Thanks to you, Rija and the ground operators for a very special trip.