We watched mesmerised as the white-necked rockfowls (Picathartes gymnocephalus) moved towards their cave nest site, using their long, slender legs to bounce effortlessly from rock to rock in the Upper Guinea forests of Ghana. Consistently, our clients visiting the country have regarded this excursion as one of their standout trip highlights and it's not difficult to appreciate why.
The West African country is home to a variety of fascinating and poorly understood species. Gravely endangered Ghana animals, including black-bellied/long-tailed (Phataginus tetradactyla) and white-bellied (tree) pangolins (Phataginus tricuspis) reside here, with the country arguably being Africa's best destination in which to seek these rare mammals safely.
But there's an urgent need for intensification of conservation efforts. The bushmeat trade remains rampant in tropical Africa and, due to a soaring human population, there's continuing pressure on remaining forests.
Key National Parks and Wildlife Reserves
Kakum National Park
Kakum’s canopy walkway is regarded as Africa’s best. (Photo: Derek Schuurman)
Best known for its 350-metre canopy walkway, Kakum National Park is a premier site for bird watchers in southern Ghana. Grab your binoculars and scan the sea of green for its avian delights which include white-crested (Horizocerus albocristatus) and brown-cheeked hornbills (Bycanistes cylindricus), blue cuckooshrike (Cyanograucalus azureus) and many other birds of the Upper Guinea forests. By day, you might also see other wildlife of Ghana, like the lesser spot-nosed monkey (Cercopithecus petaurista) and, with a very good dose of luck, a black-bellied (long-tailed) pangolin. By night, some unusual critters such as Pel’s anomalure (Anomalurus pelii) can be sought.
Ankasa Reserve
‘Waterhole Number One’ in Ankasa Reserve is home to West African dwarf crocodiles and a thriving colony of blue-billed malimbes. (Photo: Derek Schuurman)
Not far from the Ivory Coast border in far southwest Ghana, Ankasa Reserve spans approximately 500 km², most of its habitat being lush, tropical rainforest. If you’re a mammal watching fan, night walks are a pivotal part of the Ankasa experience. For starters, you might see the bizarre hammer-headed bat (Hypsignathus monstrosus) – mainland Africa’s biggest bat species. During my October 2024 visit, I was fortunate to spot five of the fascinating creatures at a fruiting tree in the Ankasa Lodge garden, as well as one flying just above Park HQ and, later, during a night excursion, several raucous males kicking off at a ‘lek’ site. We also saw three West African pottos (Perodicticus potto) and, at one of the ‘waterholes’, West African dwarf crocodiles (Osteolaemus tetraspis) during two separate morning visits.
Birding in Ankasa is off the charts! Highlights include the Nkulengu rail (Himantornis haematopus) with its unearthly calls; red-billed dwarf hornbill (Lophoceros camurus); blue-headed wood dove (Turtur brehmeri) and a cluster of colourful sunbirds.
The abundance of butterfly species in Ankasa also leaves a lasting impression on visitors. As a whole, Ghana’s butterfly diversity is bewildering, with more than 900 species making it one of West Africa’s most rewarding destinations for lepidopterists.
Janetta forester (Euphaedra janetta) in the Ashanti region. (Photo: Bill Berthet)
Ghana Mammals
While some 225 mammal species have been recorded in Ghana, it’s vital to note that the more sought-after species are scarce, often nocturnal and confined to protected areas.
With the help of an experienced, expert local guide and trackers, the potential to see extraordinary and endangered mammals is certainly boosted.
Here are some of Ghana's flagship animals high on the wish lists of visiting wildlife enthusiasts.
Black-bellied (long-tailed) pangolin
Black-bellied (long-tailed) pangolin in Kakum National Park. (Photo: Derek Schuurman, October 2024)
To defend themselves against predators, pangolins such as the diurnally active black-bellied (long-tailed) pangolin curl up into a ball, resembling a large pinecone. A sighting of these utterly beguiling, gentle and vulnerable animals is usually high on the lifetime bucket list of visiting wildlife enthusiasts. While sightings of all pangolin are unpredictable and certainly rare, the forests at Kakum and also, Nyamebe Bepo, are widely regarded as top localities in which to try for an observation.
White-bellied (tree) pangolin
Unlike it's diurnal, black-bellied counterpart, the equally gravely threatened white-bellied pangolin is mostly active at night. Arguably the best place in Ghana at which to seek this rarity is the Nyamebe Bepo Forest Reserve by Bonkro village in the Ashanti region. (Photo courtesy Ashanti African Tours, 2024)
West African potto
West African potto in Kakum. (Photo: Jon Hall, Mammalwatching.com)
Gingerly moving through dense canopy, the West African potto performs its 'crypsis' movement to make itself harder for predators to spot them. These adorable, somewhat stocky prosimians are nocturnal, eating fruits and invertebrates in the wet season and gum from trees in the dry season. They are especially reliably spotted during night walks or drives at Ankasa.
Pel's anomalure
Pel’s anomalure, which can measure just shy of a metre from nose to tail tip and weigh up to 1.8kg, in Ankasa. (Photo: courtesy of Lucas Lombardo)
Anomalures are strictly nocturnal African flying squirrels (also known as 'Scaly-tailed squirrels) which inhabit tropical forests of Central and West Africa. Largest of these is the striking black- and- white Pel's anomalure, which can be seen during night walks in Kakum and Ankasa. (Thanks to skilled guiding, I managed sightings of this species in both these sites). Some of the most accomplished guides know which tree cavities the anomalures shelter in by day, so can take you to the target location at dusk, where you wait quietly for the animals to emerge just after nightfall. Seeing a Pel's anomalure launch into the air and glide from tree to tree in the Ghanaian forest setting is a magical mammal watching experience!.
Hammer-headed bat
Hammer-headed bat. (Photo: Jon Hall, Mammalwatching.com)
Mainland Africa’s largest megabat is also the most sexually dimorphic of all bat species. The English name - and the aptly placed 'monstrosus' in its scientific name, come from the bizarre appearance of the males, which are almost twice as heavy as females and have enlarged vocal cords, enabling them to amplify their vocalisations considerably. It’s these enlarged vocal cords which give the males their swollen-faced appearance – the females look more like other flying foxes (fruit bats). To try for a sighting, I'd highly recommend Ankasa.
Phenomenal Birding in Ghana
Ghana is a haven for birdwatching enthusiasts, with over 750 bird species recorded in the country. Kakum National Park, Ankasa Reserve, Nyamebe Bepo Forest Reserve (Bonkro) and also Mole National Park are among the most outstanding birding sites, providing you with an abundance of birdlife to enjoy.
One of Africa’s most impressive birding experiences is observing the white-necked picathartes (rockfowls) in Nyamebe Bepo forest near Bonkro. In the late afternoon, your guide and trackers will take you to a forested hilltop where, at a cave site, you wait quietly on a bench close by. ‘Showtime’ starts when the birds arrive at the site and lope over the rocks to their roosting places – they’re well habituated and, as you’re so close by, there’s no need for binoculars or a scope.
Picathartes
The iconic Picathartes (or white-necked rockfowl) is restricted to Upper Guinea forests and best sought in Ghana. These slim, agile crow/roadrunner-like birds have very particular nesting requirements - usually, they’ll construct their mud nests in caves or overhangs on a hilltop within rainforest.
Violet turaco
This gorgeous frugivore is fairly social, tending to travel in pairs or small groups. Extremely vocal, the violet turaco (Musophaga violacea) is more often heard than seen and is best searched for in drier places: good sites for it include Shai Hills Resource Reserve and even the Achimota Forest in the middle of Accra.
White-crested hornbill
White-crested hornbill in the early morning sun seen from Kakum Canopy Walkway, October 2024. (Photo: Foster Frimpong)
The white-crested hornbill is an odd-looking bird, its bright white quiff contrasting with its long, graduated black tail. Listen out for its remarkable calls. The species is known for following monkeys foraging in its forest home. Ghana is an excellent destination in which to see hornbills, with nine species inhabiting its Upper Guinea forests. These range from the massive brown-cheeked hornbill to the diminutive black dwarf hornbill.
Reptiles and Amphibians in Ghana
West African dwarf crocodile, a mostly solitary reptile which inhabits ponds deep in Ankasa rainforest.
While Ghana has a reasonable species list when it comes to ‘herps’ (reptiles and amphibians), you may go for some time without seeing a single gecko, snake or lizard.
Among its ‘herps’, top of most wildlife enthusiasts' bucket lists is the West African dwarf crocodile, which is the world's smallest crocodilian. It can reliably be spotted alongside other Ghana wild animals with the help of guides in waterbodies deep in Ankasa rainforest.
Conservation & Communities in Ghana
Mr Adimah, a cacao farmer from Bonkro, explains the intricacies of Ghana's thriving cacao industry during a community-based excursion. (Photo: Derek Schuurman)
The work being conducted by private concerns to help preserve these endangered species is truly inspirational. Our exemplary Ghanaian DMC, for example, employs people from resident communities for Ankasa Lodge and Picathartes Guest House. Enjoyable and well managed community-based excursions are offered too – guests can learn how to cook (delicious!) traditional food, meet traditional healers and get to grips with the processes of the thriving cacao industry. Direct involvement of resident people has yielded a positive result for the Nyamebe Bepo Forest Reserve in particular. Nowadays, far less trees are being felled and wildlife is being protected and appreciated as sensitively managed tourism has created employment and led to the establishment of infrastructure including schools.
Seek Ghana Animals with Wildlife Tours and Safaris
Enjoying a spot of birding from one of the hanging bridges constituting the canopy walkway in Kakum, October 2024. (Photo: Foster Frimpong) - by going really early in the mornings, we dodged the crowds.
During your bespoke Ghana adventure, you're bound to encounter some of the truly unusual species in Ghana's protected areas.
We currently offer three suggested individual tours here. Our Ghana Culture, Wildlife & Coast example itinerary introduces you to vibrant culture which makes a visit to the country so compelling. Not only will you learn about important historical and cultural aspects from your expert guide, but you'll also be able to see some rare Upper Guinea forest wildlife.
Our Ghana - Birds, Rare Mammals & Butterflies sample individual tour enables you to explore some wonderful sites. Take in experiences like the Kakum canopy walk, remote Ankasa Reserve and, finally, enjoy the remarkable community-based Picathartes excursion near Bonkro village. In doing so, you make a direct contribution to conservation and responsible tourism.
If you've already explored Eastern and Southern Africa, West Africa presents something refreshingly different, with Ghana making for an excellent introduction to this comparatively poorly known part of the continent. Balmy tropical weather, welcoming people and rare Upper Guinea forest wildlife make it a wonderful place to visit if you're keen on something new which hasn’t yet been impacted by mass tourism.
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