Botswana is renowned for its pioneering conservation and low-impact tourism, which protect vast, diverse ecosystems like the Okavango Delta. As a result, you get to enjoy a safari experience that feels a world away from the crowds in refreshingly untouched landscapes.
Our Africa expert, Craig Kaufman, recently travelled to Botswana and is here to answer all of your most frequently asked questions. Drawing on his experiences here, he shares insights into the country’s immense wildlife population and lesser-known gems.
Why is Botswana a popular wildlife destination?
“Botswana has led the way in how it’s managed its wildlife conservation, from the environments and ecosystems to the wildlife, its people and communities. This has led to areas of natural beauty being left to thrive, as untouched as possible, and to continue being protected.
There are firm rules that restrict the number of passengers at lodges, as well as rigorous environmental rules for those lodges (e.g., how waste is managed, the use of sustainable energy and the use of natural resources), all to keep our carbon footprint as low as possible. This makes space limited due to the small number of lodges, but also increases demand, making Botswana a quite expensive safari destination. The country has an abundance of ecosystems that support an array of wildlife, from reed frogs in its inland delta to meerkats in the desert.
You’ll always feel as if you’re experiencing something wholly unique, thanks to the sheer diversity of landscapes the country has to offer. Some which you may want to add to your list include Moremi Game Reserve, Mababe Private Reserve and, my particular favourite, Savute.”
Why should I visit Savute?
“If you’re a fan of big cats, push Savute to the top of your travel list.
Savute is in the western part of Chobe National Park, south of the busy Chobe Riverfront, covering nearly 5,000km2. This includes the Savute Channel (two-thirds of which is situated within the private Linyanti Concession), the Savute Marsh and the Mababe Depression. Its raw, dry landscape hosts intense predator encounters and exceptional game viewing opportunities. One minute, you could spy a giraffe sauntering through an open field with no care in the world; the next, you may happen upon two antelopes clashing together with their antlers.
From my latest visit, I took a photograph of this beautiful leopard atop its tree tower:
But it’s the lions that rule here.
There are two active, dominant prides (the Marsh/Southern Pride and the Northern Pride), which are extremely territorial and known to grow as large as 40 strong! Not only that, but they’ve been seen hunting other predators, such as hyenas. National Geographic showcased this in its 1997 documentary Eternal Enemies, and the rivalry hasn’t slowed down since. Nowadays, you may be lucky enough to witness this fascinating dynamic, or even the lions approach your vehicle.
Savute is also known for its unpredictable water flows – and the unique, erratic Savute Channel, which, when flowing, creates a seasonal marsh. The area around the Savute Marsh comprises wide savanna and dense mopane woodland, attracting large numbers of predators and herbivores. Game drives focus on sightings of four of the Big Five – lion, leopard, elephant and buffalo – as well as cheetah, hyena, wild dog, giraffe, wildebeest, zebra and an array of antelopes. Birding is also brilliant, as Savute is home to over 450 bird species.”
What tips do you have for visiting Savute?
“My number one tip would be to, while you’re out on safari, ask your driver-guide about Savute’s unique lion adaptations. The arid Savute region has forced lions to develop extreme survival strategies unlike those lions found in wetter areas. Historically, large prides (mega prides) of 30+ lions formed, showcasing immense power.
But by living in a harsh environment where large prey is crucial, they were able to adapt and develop the unique, learned, fierce predator behaviour of hunting large prey. This includes mature elephants, which is a rare feat for lions. They particularly target sub-adults during the dry season (August—November), when food is scarce.
Over the years, complex dynamics, including the drying up of the channel, dominance struggles and the formation of unique coalitions, have led to pride splits and fluctuations in numbers.
My second tip would be to stay at Savute Safari Lodge. Located on the banks of the Savute Channel in the remote western part of Chobe National Park, it’s perfectly placed for watching the area’s abundant game, especially with the waterhole that sits directly at the front.
During my stay, I recorded elephants, southern giraffes, impalas and kudus at the waterhole while I ate or relaxed on the elevated deck or in my room. As well as this, you can observe other animals that frequent the waterhole, including buffalo, Burchell’s zebra and lion.
PICTURED: Dining with elephants at the waterhole. Photo courtesy of Savute Safari Lodge.
In fact, the rooms themselves have been built to reveal as much of the Savute Channel as possible. Following a restructure in 2024, the design and style of each lodging were carefully reimagined to ensure a distinct, individual character.
I found mine to be both stylish and comfortable, blending natural thatching and canvas with indoor-outdoor showers. Waking up and stepping out onto my private deck, coffee in hand, was nothing short of magical, watching in silence as the local wildlife began their day.
PICTURED: Double Room. Photo courtesy of Savute Safari Lodge.
The restaurant, bar, swimming pool and extended firepit decking and photographic hide all overlook the waterhole. Another unique feature is the sunken hide, which allows you to see wildlife at eye level – a prime vantage point of animals visiting the waterhole.”
What activities should I do in Savute?
“Game drives are excellent in the morning or afternoon in a shared, open-sided 4×4 vehicle. Plus, you can enjoy a bush lunch or dinner to round off your memorable experience.
Or for a different game perspective, why not enjoy a helicopter safari? It’s at an additional cost. But my word, the birds-eye view you have takes your breath away, especially at certain times of the year, such as the annual zebra migration when you can see them snake through the region.
I also recommend heading over to Gubatsa Hills to see the ancient San rock paintings. They’re estimated to be over 1,500 years old, and include motifs of elephants, giraffes and more!”
How do I get to and from Savute?
“Travel to and from Savute is via Maun International Airport to the Savute Airstrip. This is an approximate 40-minute light aircraft flight (connections to CKGR, Nxai Pan, Makgadikgadi, JNB).
Another option is to fly from Kasane International Airport to Savute Airstrip. Again, this is a 40-minute light-aircraft flight (with connections from Victoria Falls/Livingstone).
The journey between Savute Airstrip and Savute Safari Lodge is a 20-minute drive.”
What is the difference between Moremi Game Reserve and Mababe Private Reserve?
“Moremi Game Reserve is known for its very high wildlife density. It’s a government-managed reserve accessible to the public and can be busy during peak seasons. There are water-dependent wildlife present among the lush floodplains, lagoons and water channels.
You can experience both water and land game-viewing opportunities, whether that’s via 4×4, mokoro or motorboat. Walking, night drives and off-roading, however, aren’t allowed. Lastly, the landscapes are rich in wildlife. Wild dogs, leopards and lions are abundant; cheetahs are harder to spot because of other predators. Rhinos are similarly very rare to encounter.
Mababe Private Reserve is quieter than other tourism areas. Since it’s a private reserve, vehicle and guest numbers are restricted; night drives and walking are permitted here, though. The vegetation is slightly drier than in Moremi, with more savannah and mopane forests along the banks of the Khwai River. It isn’t unusual to see herds of buffalo and elephants.
In the dry season, Mababe is the nearest water source for thousands of animals – its permanent marshland fed by the perennial Mababe River and seasonal Okavango Delta. It drains into the Linyanti through the Savute Channel, creating the vast grassland of the Mababe Depression.
Overall, the wildlife at both is wonderful. But if you’re after an experience a bit more off the beaten track, with the opportunity to go on night drives and walks, look no further than Mababe.”
When is the best time to visit Botswana?
“Botswana, like many other wildlife areas, is governed by seasons and weather patterns.
The Okavango Delta gets its water from the highlands of Angola, with rain falling between November and April. It takes months for the water to travel the thousands of kilometres south to flood the Delta. Water levels increase from April to May, reaching full flood from June to August. This is known as the ‘peak flood’, when most water-related game activities are in full swing. It’s worth noting, though, that rainfall isn’t always high, and recent years have seen droughts.
My last visit was in November, when I got to enjoy a pleasant mokoro ride:
Wildlife is very active during the June to August peak flood period. This is also the winter season, when it’s cooler and the vegetation is sparser, making the creatures easier to see.
From September, the flood begins to recede, marking the start of spring. If you visit now, be aware that there are summer rains, but they tend to be short, sharp and last only an hour or so to cool a warm afternoon. The vegetation starts to flesh out again, bringing brightly coloured scenes of green, blue skies (sometimes dramatic with thunder clouds).
November through March is known as the green season, as it’s Botswana’s summer. Temperatures are higher, vegetation is lush, flowers are blooming, migratory birds are floating about in abundance and there are chances of short thundershowers. In particular, photography and birding are both fantastic at this time of year.”
What are your top tips for visiting Botswana?
“Number one – due to the limited availability, Botswana’s lodges can get booked up quickly, so book your holiday six to twelve months in advance. It’s even better to do this even further in advance, if you can, as it gives you a greater variety of lodge options. This helps you to secure the best option available for you and your interests.
Number two – if you’re budget-conscious, consider travelling outside of the peak flood season. Botswana is a sought-after, wildlife-rich area, so it’s naturally more expensive. But in the green season, there are more special offers available with more choices. The only thing you’d need to be aware of is that there could be a thunderstorm, and it could be hot.
Number three – with your visit to Chobe National Park, choose a lodge that’s inside the park or away from the busy waterfront to make the most of it. Chobe is a premier wildlife area, well known for its huge elephant population. It’s also well positioned to service Victoria Falls and Livingstone in Zambia. Alternatively, head to Savute for a more exclusive wildlife experience.”
Follow in Craig’s Footsteps with Rainbow
Ready to experience Botswana for yourself? Speak to our expert Africa team to start planning your tailor-made safari, from the waterways of the Okavango Delta to the predator-rich plains of Savute. With a limited number of lodges and high demand, now is the time to secure your place.
Our Botswana At Its Best sample itinerary is an excellent starting point. It features Savute, allowing you to spot everything from lions to leopards, wild dogs and a host of bird species.
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