Vividly coloured lakes, iconic granite pillars, magnificent rugged plains and penguin-inhabited islands – the Chilean Patagonia is a natural wonderland perfect for adventurers.
Our Latin America Travel Specialist, Jake Aley, has recently returned from his 18-day trip to Patagonia and is here to provide his first-hand insights on hiking and cruising in this spectacular part of the world.
Hiking the wilderness of Patagonia
Well, what can I say? Mother Nature in Patagonia is staggering, with every nook and cranny offering something beautiful to lay your eyes on. It amazed me with its picture-book-esque mountain vistas and golden, windswept plains which blanket the rugged landscapes.
Torres del Paine is the standout for hiking in the Chilean Patagonia. This National Park is recognised as a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve – and rightly so, as it’s home to most of the Southern Patagonian Icefield and the iconic sight of Paine Massif. I was blown away by the number of magnificent viewpoints, sometimes almost pinching myself to see if I was dreaming!
On top of this, you also have striking wildlife experiences to look forward to. Although rare, there are opportunities to witness and photograph everything from elusive pumas to guanacos, foxes and some of the 118-odd bird species that roam these lands.
Where I explored during my adventure
Following my trip, I’d like to highlight the two lodges I stayed at in/near Torres del Paine: Remota Hotel and Tierra Patagonia. From here, I enjoyed some of the best hiking experiences of my life.
Remota Hotel
The southern half of Torres del Paine can be explored from the base of Puerto Natales. Here, the Remota Hotel is a great option as a place to stay. You can make your way into the park from here for a full day of exploration, where one of the lodge’s four resident guides is available to help provide expert insights. Additionally, there’s a freelance guide for more specialist trekking, kayaking and other activities.
Local hikes here are superb and their all-inclusive programme really feels like great value for money with all the meals and tours built into your stay. One route I recommend exploring is ‘Rupestre’, if you’re moderately fit. It’s about 30 minutes from the hotel, and there's a good chance of seeing condors (with views of the creature similar to what I’ve experienced in Peru’s Colca Canyon). I also spotted puma and a Magellanic woodpecker on the road back from this area (although this can be very unusual!).
The hike itself is about seven kilometres and has a few steep sections, plus a moment where you almost rappel down a steep rock holding a rope. If this sounds too ‘active’ for you, we can always tailor your itinerary with alternative experiences – get in touch to find out more.
Tierra Patagonia
Tierra Patagonia is—simply put—perfectly located. Not only that, but the staff are very attentive and the service is personal without feeling like it’s unnecessarily overdone. Overall, the hotel strikes an incredible balance between luxury and adventure, allowing you to experience one of the most rugged environments in Latin America in absolute comfort!
I found the experiences here to be of an excellent standard. It’s worth noting that the three main valleys of the ‘W Trek’ can be done as three full-day excursions from Tierra (Sector Grey, French Valley and Base of the Towers). The reality is that the longer you can stay, the more you can do and the greater depth your experience will be. If you were to opt for these three very full-day hikes, though, then this can be a tough few days physically, so we would certainly suggest giving yourself more time. During this time, the scenery throughout is nothing short of awe-inspiring.
Hiking levels range from easy to more demanding treks, and there’s mountain biking, horse riding (aimed at beginners, but contact us in advance to arrange for experienced riders) and wildlife-focused trips (with bird specialist guides available). You can also arrange puma tracking, kayaking, fly fishing and Patagonian lamb BBQs, all at an additional cost.
One hike took me to Mirador Cuernos, which—as you can see—provided superb panoramic views over Lake Nordenskjöld, all as the heavens shone down upon the snow-capped peaks.
I was so impressed by everything about Tierra, and it's well worth considering if you want to stay in one of the top accommodation options!
My top tips for hiking in Patagonia
1. Be sure to listen out for the guanacos (wild llamas) as you’re hiking throughout Torres del Paine – your guide may also use their alarm call to alert you when there’s a puma nearby!
2. If you want to experience the W Trek without camping or staying at shared refuges, you can opt for Tierra Patagonia (or other top lodges) and hike the three main sections as day trips instead. You’ll return to your lodge to relax in a warm lounge with a glass of wine each night, and have days to rest in between.
3. Bring plenty of layers and something windproof. Torres del Paine, like most of Patagonia, gets very windy – and you can potentially experience all four seasons in a single hike!
Our Highlights of Chile sample route gives you three nights to explore Torres del Paine. With a dramatic landscape of mountain peaks, roaring rivers, sparkling blue lakes and rich emerald forests, it remains one of the most spectacular settings in Latin America.
Cruising the fjords of southern Patagonia
Making your way south from Torres del Paine to Tierra del Fuego marks a shift in scenery, from granite peaks and turquoise lakes to subantarctic forests and varied coastal scenery. The dramatic glaciers you get to visit are cold to the bone, whereas the sparkling fjords feature rocky faces on either side of you, dwarfing your vessel in comparison.
A cruise is necessary to reach some of the more off-the-beaten-track areas here. I travelled with Australis Cruises, who were very accommodating throughout my journey. They provided daily expeditions and a comfortable space to rest between my exploration of the region.
Overall, I was impressed with the excellent quality of the guides. They were enthusiastic and passionate about their craft, constantly engaging and providing a fountain of knowledge to lean on across my adventures. Please note, you must be comfortable getting in and out of the zodiacs. However, they’re good at helping you do so if you need assistance.
How my cruise journey panned out
The route I took was the ‘Fjords of Tierra del Fuego’, travelling from Punta Arenas to Ainsworth Bay, Pia Glacier, Glacier Alley and Wulaia Bay before departing at Ushuaia.
PICTURED: Australis Cruises’ ‘Fjords of Tierra del Fuego’ route aboard Ventus Australis. Credit: Australis Cruises
Day 1 – Boarding at Punta Arenas
After being collected at my hotel, Cabo de Hornos, in the afternoon, I was taken to the Australis office to check in and drop my bags off. You then have some free time to explore the town independently before boarding later in the evening.
The logistics of boarding and dropping luggage to the rooms on the Ventus Australis ship are very smooth. When you board, you’ll have a welcome meeting (including the details for the following day) with some drinks and snacks before departing and having dinner.
Day 2 – Ainsworth Bay
In the morning, the boat will have arrived at Ainsworth Bay. There’s an option for two hikes, both short – one focused on the forest (which is flat and easy to walk) and the second up a glacial moraine (which is a little steeper, but fine if you don’t have any mobility issues).
The views of the bay and its surroundings are nothing short of majestic. For what is a relatively easy walk, too, you’re blessed in that regard. Take a moment to really drink it all in.
Afterwards, you return to the ship for some downtime and lunch.
In the afternoon, you’re then invited to see a penguin colony from your zodiac. Unfortunately, our visit to the penguin colony was cancelled. So, if seeing these feathery birds is high on your list of things to do in Patagonia, let us know, and we can factor this into your bespoke itinerary, perhaps tweaking the time of your visit to a more reliable time of spotting them.
Day 3 – Pia Glacier & Glacier Alley
Halfway through the trip, I visited and got up close to Porter Glacier via zodiac for around one hour in the morning. The journey on the zodiac is gorgeous in and of itself. As you glide through the ice-strewn waters, your eyes dart between grey mountains around you and off in the distance. Although usually only done on the Ushuaia-Punta Arenas route, Australis included this due to the cancelled penguin trip.
As for visiting Pia Glacier, you travel by zodiac for around ten minutes to the shore and can do one of three walks. The first is just five minutes to the glacier's base, where you can observe it. It’s pretty active, so I was able to see some ice falls crashing into the waves below!
The other two walks are to viewpoints further away, so you can choose depending on your fitness level. Either way, you experience one of the world’s most phenomenal natural wonders.
In the evening, I spent time at the onboard bar viewing Glacier Alley, which takes about one hour to cruise down. From the ship, you get to see five equally impressive glaciers, each named after a different European country – España, Francia, Alemania, Holanda and Italia – due to the 19th-century explorers who documented the region.
To put the cherry on top, you’re even served snacks and drinks representative of each country! It’s all good fun – and, partnered with the spellbinding views passing you by, memorable too.
Again, it’s worth noting that you don’t get to do this when travelling from Ushuaia to Punta Arenas, as you cruise through Glacier Alley at night. I feel this would be a real shame, and you’d be missing out on what I think was one of the nicest parts of the cruise. So, while both routes have pros and cons, it may be worth factoring that into your decision.
Day 4 – Cape Horn (or not..) & Wulaia Bay
We started early to attempt a landing on Cape Horn Island. But unfortunately, the conditions didn’t permit us to land. Please be aware that travel here is subject to the conditions on the day, so you may well have better luck than me, and this really is part of the beauty of the region! A decision is made on the morning of the trip after your guides make their initial attempts, and of course, passenger safety is the most important factor.
In the afternoon, we anchored down at Wulaia Bay. Again, depending on your fitness/mobility level, you'll have three options for exploration. My option led to a peaceful viewpoint during a pleasant hike. Plus, it had some better chances for wildlife sightings, such as beaver (pictured below) and ‘wild’ pigs that were brought by fishermen and escaped, now living in the woods. There’s a small visitor centre with cultural information. All-in-all, it’s a great way to wind down at the end of the trip.
Day 5 – Departure at Ushuaia
After you leave your bags outside your room in the morning, they’ll be taken ashore for you, ready to be picked up. The earliest time I recommend being picked up for a transfer is 8:30 am, so you have enough time to enjoy breakfast, which is served at 8:00 am.
Some final words of advice: it’s worth bringing a waterproof jacket and waterproof trousers. I’m glad I did. Otherwise, you’ll get wet on the zodiac rides as you can be sitting on some water. Additionally, the cabins are great and spacious with large windows to absolutely take advantage of this incredible part of southern Patagonia.
My top cruising highlight for Patagonia
On your Australis cruise, keep an eye out for waterspouts from whales from the observation deck (or bar!). Scanning with binoculars while having a drink in the evening gives you a great chance of sightings, especially where the outer fjords flow into the Beagle Channel.
Our Chile – North to South suggested itinerary includes an Australis expedition cruise, so you can experience the magic and natural beauty of Tierra del Fuego for yourself. Plus, you’ll have time to explore Santiago and the Atacama Desert before a stint in Buenos Aires.
Experience Patagonia with Rainbow
Why not follow in Jake’s footsteps and head out on your own Patagonian adventure? By giving us a call today, we can chat about your travel plans and craft your journey, ensuring every moment—from wildlife encounters to awe-inspiring vistas—is spectacular.
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