It might have a war-torn history, but Sierra Leone is a country that very much looks to the future. Experienced travel writer Helen Jackson, who’s visited 110+ countries and enjoys getting off the beaten track in Africa with her husband Roy, recently visited herself and discovered a vibrant community and incredible wildlife.
By Helen Jackson
There is no doubt that Sierra Leone has had a turbulent past and that, unsurprisingly, mass tourism has not yet taken off. However, undiscovered Africa and its inevitable challenges appealed to us.
Lunghi Airport is inconveniently located on the northern shore of an estuary, and to avoid a three-hour road trip, we took the 45-minute Sea Coach Express ferry to Freetown. Minibuses constantly shuttle people and luggage separately down to the dock, and although we were tired and darkness was settling in, we successfully located our cases and ensured we travelled together.
Onward to Freetown and Beyond
PICTURED: Freetown, Sierra Leone. Photo taken by Helen Jackson.
Freetown is twinned with my home city, Kingston Upon Hull, as its MP, William Wilberforce, initiated the abolition of the slave trade in 1807. But there were more Yorkshire links, as the National Railway Museums of Sierra Leone and York have strong connections, and our guide proudly produced photos of a recent visit.
The city’s sights can be seen in a day, but sadly, the iconic 400-year-old Cotton Tree, where settlers first prayed on starting their new lives as free people, was felled by violent storms just months after our visit.
A further day was spent visiting Bunce Island, where the peace and tranquillity belied its dark slave trading past, and Tacugama Chimpanzee Sanctuary, with 115 abandoned or mistreated animals.
PICTURED: Helen Jackson and Roy Messenger, Bunce Island, Sierra Leone.
PICTURED: Bunce Island Fortress sign, Sierra Leone. Photo taken by Helen Jackson.
In the evenings, Freetown’s Home Suites Boutique Hotel attracted well-heeled, non-resident locals, with girls glammed up to the nines in high heels and voluptuous figures squeezed into skimpy glittery dresses. Birthdays were noisily celebrated with cakes, selfies and a succession of travelling trumpeters. It was hard to believe we were in one of the world’s poorest countries.
Life Off the Grid in the Gola Rainforest
Having left the city, we stayed in basic and remote accommodation with shared bathrooms, designed for conservationists and researchers. As we were the only guests, we shopped in the local market and took a cook with us. Although Suzanne’s ‘kitchen’ was a table set up in a forest clearing with a single gas burner, she produced delicious jollof rice, fried plantain and cassava leaf stews.
PICTURED: Suzanne, Gola Rainforest, Sierra Leone. Photo taken by Helen Jackson.
There is no wildlife we’d seen in other African countries, and the level of guiding is still in its formative years. Gola Rainforest provided sightings, albeit fleetingly, of Diana monkeys and the yellow-casqued hornbill, whilst the solitary and nocturnal pygmy hippo associated with Tiwai Island remained elusive. However, both forest and island delivered hikes to suit all levels, plus peace and tranquillity.
Visits to several local communities helped us understand their simple way of life and, along with two visiting RSPB representatives, we were treated to the Gola masked devil dance. Children greeted us with loud shouts of pumoi, meaning ‘white person’, and rubbed our arms, fascinated by the colour of our skin.
PICTURED: Gola Devil Dance, Gola Rainforest, Sierra Leone. Photo taken by Helen Jackson.
Sea, Sand and Serene Sunrises
PICTURED: Banana Island, Sierra Leone. Photo taken by Helen Jackson.
Beaches stretch down the coast from Freetown and at what is simply known as Number 2 beach, we found sand deep and white enough to rival the Maldives, and brightly coloured wooden chairs, tables and umbrellas which could be hired from the local community.
At our hotel on Tokeh Beach, a small international conference was taking place, which meant the beach was ours. We sunbathed and watched the fisherman haul in their daily catch and the constant parade of locals carrying all manner of goods on their heads.
PICTURED: Number 2 beach, Sierra Leone. Photo taken by Helen Jackson.
PICTURED: Fishermen, Sierra Leone. Photo taken by Helen Jackson.
The coastline has several islands, and we camped in basic tents on Banana Island. We rose early to see the sunrise and gazed at the movements of the tide and gull-covered rocks. Freshly caught fish, cocktails and reggae music provided a Caribbean vibe. Sierra Leone has several advantages. As a former British Colony, English is widely spoken, visas are obtained on arrival, and electrical adaptors are rarely required. Money is easily changed, but since the largest note is 20 Leone (around 80p), a large wallet is required; it ensures you’re never without a small tip.
PICTURED: Banana Island, Sierra Leone. Photo taken by Helen Jackson.
PICTURED: Sunrise at Banana Island, Sierra Leone. Photo taken by Helen Jackson.
However, you need to cope with long journeys on dusty, bumpy roads, not be averse to cold or tepid showers, and be prepared for an erratic power supply – one night we wore head torches to eat dinner.
In return, you’ll be amply rewarded by an unforgettable experience with friendly, welcoming people, amazingly full of smiles despite all they have endured. You’ll also be ahead of the game as the country cannot remain undiscovered for much longer. Just pack a plentiful supply of humour, resilience, patience and stamina, ensure you and your luggage are on the same ferry, and let the adventures begin.
Plan Your Sierra Leone Adventure with Rainbow
Speak to our Travel Specialists for expert advice on visiting Sierra Leone. With first-hand insight and a passion for discovering the world’s lesser-known places, we can help you plan a journey that reveals the country’s vibrant culture, wildlife and beautiful coastline.
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