Seychelles: Press
In her tour of five of the islands, Maggie O'Riordan found herself following in the footprints of Michael Douglas and Catherine Zeta Jones, Paul McCartney and Heather Mills and Brad Pitt and Jennifer Aniston.
They used to be known for their beaches and ... their beaches. The Seychelles - 115 islands scattered across the Indian Ocean - were a great place to get away from it all. But once you'd got away there wasn't much else to do. But the islands have had a makeover. And they're now attracting a new breed of holidaymaker, one who used to only be found topping up their perma-tans in the five-star surroundings of the Caribbean ... the celebrity.
Mahé
First stop for all visitors to the Seychelles, this is beach-lover's heaven.
The biggest of the islands at 17 miles long and 5 miles wide, it has 75 glorious beaches to hide away on.
And by beaches I mean the purest, powdery sand, the clearest turquoise waters and nothing other than the odd turtle for company.
For those who get bored soaking up the sun, there are also huge mountains to hike on and lots of tropical vegetation to discover.
For the first leg of our visit, stayed at the charming Rose Garden hotel, in the hills overlooking the capital, Victoria (the only town in the whole of the Seychelles and best described as a big village).
The restored colonial house, famed for its cuisine, made the perfect base for touring the island by car. Transport is a must for those who want to get the most from the island and you need at least three days to fit everything in.
We were amazed by how much there was to see in such a tiny place. First we stopped at the botanical gardens where flowers the size of our hands plopped to the ground.
When we sunbathed on Beau Vallon beach, longer than Hawaii's Waikiki beach and virtually deserted.
The next day we popped in to Victoria. We toured the food market but found little to buy. We adjourned instead to the giant Pirate's Arms pub and watched the world amble by as we munched giant sandwiches.
Later, we set off inland and stocked up on some wonderful silk paintings at the Craft Village at Anse aux Pins. Mahe is the Seychelles' arts capital and is the perfect place for gifts for those freezing at home. The next day we enjoyed a hazy, two-hour lunch of palm-heart salad and coconut chicken curry at Chez Batista feet-in-the-sand restaurant on Takamaka Beach. No visitor should miss out on a meal in such a breathtaking setting.
But the absolute jewel of the island has to be the Banyan Tree. A two-day stay at the new five-star spa resort rounded off our visit.
From the moment we were transported by golf-buggy to our hillside villa, all thoughts of the outside world were banished. Each villa is set in dramatic seclusion among swaying palms and has its own pocket-handkerchief-sized swimming pool as well as a Roman style marble bath.
All overlook the rugged Intendance Beach, formerly owned by Peter Seller and the late Beatle George Harrison. A presidential villa is available, but be prepared to queue up behind a host of A-list celebs if you want to book it.
I just about managed to drag myself to the state-of-the-art spa and suddenly discovered the true meaning of relaxation. After a 90-minute facial and hour-long massage, I was walking on air.
BEST FOR: Beach lovers and a spot of pampering.
WORST FOR: Non-drivers.
Praslin
The scent of tropical flowers almost knocks you out when you land at the tiny airport.
The second largest of the islands, Praslin is a 15-minute plane ride from Mahe and makes the perfect base for an island-hopping tour.
The island is home to fantastically shaped rocks and the coral reefs teem with life. It also boasts some of the world's most beautiful beaches, most famously Anse Lazio.
Our first stop was the tree-star Paradise Sun resort, on lovely Côte D'Or Beach. Each of the Creole-style chalets overlooks the ocean, which make the hotel an ideal family choice. By day, the active can enjoy beach-volleyball and watersports and by night guests can watch traditional dancing on the beach.
The hotel is a stone's throw from the island's pride and joy, the Vallée De Mai, home to the famous coco de mer palm. Folklore has it that at sundown, the male trees lean over the female trees and no human ever lives to tell the tale of what follows. The result is a fruit bearing a curious resemblance to female genitalia.
For those who love the finer things in life, a stay on the island Lemuria resort is a must. The new five-star hotel, which boasts a top-class golf course, offers 88 suites decorated in a striking combination of natural materials. The McCarneys honeymooned here and Anthea Turner and Grant Bovey have also graced the hotel with their presence.
For us, the most unforgettable thing was the food. A special five-course meal kicked off with octopus, followed by langoustine with ravioli. Next we were served something resembling game pie. When the chef said we were eating fruit bat, I lost enthusiasm.
BEST FOR: Celeb-spotting and doing the nature trails.
WORST FOR: Party lovers.
La Digue
Without doubt the most charming of the islands, La Digue is just six miles long by four miles wide.
A kind of Seychellois Sark, the forth-biggest of the islands has stubbornly refused to join the 20th century.
From the moment we landed after a rocky half-hour crossing from Praslin we were struck by one thing - the silence. The taxi driver (there seemed to be two motorised cabs in the whole place) was in no hurry to take us to our hotel, but when he finally got around to loading our luggage he did so with a big smile.
Across the Seychelles, the philosophy is the same: "Don't do today what can be put off until tomorrow." And nowhere is this more pronounced than on La Digue.
As we meandered through the pot-holed roads, our driver veered to a sudden halt. In front of us was an oxcart ferrying a bunch of tourists. This is the preferred method of transport on the island and never fails to raise a smile. Once we had been checked in - very slowly - at the simple but friendly Patatran Hotel, my partner Dominic and I were furnished with a bicycle. I have not ridden a bike since I was 12 and was a tad reluctant to exert myself in such intense heat.
But before long we had joined the throng of tourists hurtling around the tiny road network. There are few shops and restaurants but ample opportunity to get close to nature.
We stopped off for a walk at Anse l'Union, a stunning and empty beach. We then visited L'Union estate, where you can feed giant tortoises and walk around the old coconut plantation.
Then it was back on our bikes to return to the hotel.
By now I was tired, hungry and more than a little saddle-sore. When we finally sat down for that night's meal our fellow guests were highly amused to hear me request a cushion.
BEST FOR: A trip back in time.
WORST FOR: Shopaholics.
Alphonse
This is like a desert island with the trappings of a luxury hotel.
The triangular isle, 300 miles from Mahe and surrounded by a deep turquoise lagoon, has remained in its natural state since it was discovered in 1730.
From the moment you alight from your hour-long flight, the staff at this "island resort" place themselves at your disposal.
You are presented with a refreshing cold towel before being transported to the clubhouse for delicious sandwiches, salads and drinks.
Then an elongated golf buggy known as "the limo" takes you to one of 25 A-frame chalets, each a few short steps from your own section of beach. There is no "hotel" as such here. Your chalet is your home and the whole island is at your disposal.
Once inside we felt really at home. I immersed myself in the indoor sunken bath while my partner took in the sunset from the comfort of our outdoor shower. The bed had a much needed mosquito net and the minibar was well-stocked.
Each chalet is equipped with two bikes and later that evening we cycled up to the clubhouse for an exquisite dinner of palm-heart gratin followed by red snapper, which we had been invited to choose earlier.
Alphonse is popular with fishermen and is one of the world's top destinations for fly and game fishing. Diving, snorkelling and trips to neighbouring Bijoutier and St Francois can be organised by reception.
We thoroughly enjoyed our guided tour out to the lagoon where we were taught to spot turtles, puffa fish and other marine life.
At nights there is little to do except enjoy an after-dinner drink with fellow guests before settling down on the veranda for taxing game of Scrabble. Bliss
BEST FOR: Fishing, fishing and more fishing. Oh .. and relaxing.
WORST FOR: Rip-roaring nightlife.
Anonyme
Never in a million years did I think I would have anything in common with the magician Paul Daniels.
That was until I read his entry in the visitors' book here. It read simply: "A magical place." I couldn't have put it better myself.
There are six villas on the 40-acre island, which is just a stone's throw from the airport on Mahe, as well as a presidential villa.
During our stay, there was just one other couple holidaying here, so we spent our day walking from beach to beach and bathing in the luke warm waters, never seeing another soul.
The management ensure that everything is done with a personal touch and that starts when you are picked up from Mahe's private jetty by the resort's own private boat.
You are free to choose whatever you want for breakfast and dinner and if you want to hop across to Mahe the boat is at your disposal.
The villas are sumptuously decorated in traditional Creole style and are dominated by a king-sized bed, which sits on a raised platform overlooking the sea.
BEST FOR: Getting away from it all.
WORST FOR: Anything other than eating sleeping and sunbathing.
• A nine-day three-island tour of the Seychelles with Rainbow Tours (020 7226 1004/www.rainbowtours.co.uk), including international and domestic flights, transfers and accommodation of a B&B basis costs £1,075 p.p.
• More information: Seychelles Tourist Office, 2nd floor, Eros House, 111 Baker Street, London W1M 1FE (020 7224 1670/www.seychelles.uk.com). Log on to www.sey.net for activities and hotels. The Lonely Planet Mauritius, Réunion & Seychelles is packed with useful information £11.99.
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