Domain de Fontenay

Hi Helen!

I am back in one happy and mostly recovered piece and glad to share feedback about my amazing experience.

I did indeed see my Brookesia minima! And B. tuberculata, stumpfii, and more. Panthers, Oustalet’s, chameleon heaven. I think my traveling companions were amused by my enthusiasm, I can only hope I didn’t actually squeal with delight upon finding each beastie.

Favorite places: Nosy Be’s Lokobe excursion of course due to minima but we found many other exciting critters there too. Amber mountain ties Lokobe for the sheer diversity and bounty of species. I saw a bunch of chameleons on French mountain so glad we fit that in. Loved Ankarana, loved searching for Perrier’s sifaka. Least favorite was Andisabe, too many people crowding some animals at once but I did enjoy the indris.

Favorite hotel by far was Iharana Camp, that place caused a literal physical relaxation. Just stunning and really enjoyed all the activities there. Black Lemur was surprisingly comfortable for its remote location. Domain de Fontenay was comfortable and the night walk on its property was fabulous. Relais des Plateaux was a great base camp of sorts, I got to see a lot of it. Least favorite was Vakona- the lodge itself was lovely, food was outstanding, cabin was comfortable but a staff member pulled a birds nest from its wall niche with hatchlings in it to show one of my companions in what we both believe was an attempt to solicit a tip; this same individual was hovering around me watching a chameleon for what I believe was the same motivation.

The selection of destinations and lodgings was thoughtful and clearly well-researched to deliver comfort and a wide variety of wildlife, kudos to Daniel! He and Hery worked very hard to accommodate Air Mad’s flight cancellation (undoubtedly with help from others behind the scenes) but I must say missing some of Amber mountain was disappointing for me because of the herpetofauna I was hoping to see. The only other negative was not having someone at the airport with my name as expected to collect me when I arrived in Tana. I’m intrepid but I was so tired and it was disconcerting. I would give up Vakona at Andisabe altogether for more time at the other locations because I thought them more peaceful and more interesting with absolutely no negatives.

All the local guides really seemed to enjoy sharing their knowledge with us, nothing but praise for them. The drivers were polite, took obvious pride in keeping their vehicles immaculate and did not hit any chickens for this sensitive old lady. And Hery! The English language does not contain enough superlatives for Hery. I cannot imagine a better ambassador for his fellow citizens and creatures who inhabit that amazing place. He took such fabulous care of us, always making sure we were comfortable; I swear that man never got to enjoy a hot meal he was so busy. Special thanks to him for letting me linger as long as possible with my beloved lizards.

I thought this would be a dream trip and it actually turned out that way, cannot commend enough Hery, Daniel, all the locals and the staff of Rainbow and Za that made this dream come true for me.