São Tomé is the largest island in the two archipelagos and home to the capital - also called São Tomé - and also the international airport. Most travellers who make it to São Tomé are nature-lovers, keen to try the trekking in the interior, where their path will mostly likely have to be cleared by an athletic guide wielding a machete. One compelling sight is the country’s stately roças, which seem straight out of an Isabel Allende novel. Some are huge, with castellated gates and forlorn, semi-derelict hospitals. Others are reviving as the world awakes to the joys of São Tomé’s delicious organic chocolate. A century ago, these islands were the world’s largest producer of cacao, and you can take estate tours to learn how this luscious fruit gets turned into the prized bars and drinking powders now available in gourmet shops in the UK.