Category: Wildlife

Where to see Madagascar’s Weird and Wonderful Wildlife

Rainbow Tours’ travel specialist and  naturalist, Derek Schuurman, has teamed up with some accomplished wildlife photographer friends to present an overview of Madagascar’s strangest and most sought-after life forms, regularly found  on the lists of visiting nature enthusiasts. Here are their top ten and where you can see them on our Madagascar holidays.

Aye Aye, photograph by Daniel Austin

The ‘gremlin’ of Madagascar’s forests and largest of all nocturnal primates, the Aye-aye essentially fills the niche occupied on continents by woodpeckers. It is arguably the only primate known to use echolocation in search of food. Although the size of an overgrown house cat, it is difficult to spot in the wild, so the best place in which to see it is by prior arrangement at the nocturnal animal house in the national zoological gardens in Antananarivo.

Spear-nosed or Twig-mimic snake

The rarely seen Spear-nosed or Twig-mimic snakes of the genus Langaha are among the island’s most remarkable reptiles. Males tend to have a spear-shaped nasal appendage, while females sport the extraordinary, fan-shaped nasal extensions. Langaha alluaudi and Langaha pseudoalluaudi are very seldom encountered so Hilary Bradt was extremely fortunate to photograph this one during a walk in the dry deciduous forest at Anjajavy. Our Madagascar Made Easy tour visits the protected lemur-rich rainforests of Andasibe-Mantadia National Park (Perinet) and the deciduous dry forest of Anjajavy.

Leaf-tailed gecko

A favourite with visiting wildlife enthusiasts are the Leaf-tailed geckos (genus Uroplatus), some of which mimic dead leaves while others are bark mimics. The Satanic leaf-tailed gecko, Uroplatus phantasticus, above, is the best known of the dead leaf mimics.  Below is the Fringed gecko, Uroplatus fimbriatus. Both species can be seen in protected rainforests such as Andasibe-Mantadia (‘Perinet’) which is visited on our Madagascar Reefs & Rainforests tour. Those travelling along the RN7 will visit the Ranomafana National Park, where the Fringed gecko was photographed, on our Classic Madagascar Overland: the RN7 Route tour.

Leaftailed gecko, photograph by Rainbow Tours client Chris Gurr

Giant jumping rat

Confined to a narrow range near Morondava, the endangered, hare-sized Giant jumping rat is Madagascar’s largest endemic rodent. In summer months, lucky visitors may see it hopping around like a little wallaby in the baobab forest of Kirindy. Fortunately the species is breeding well at the Jersey Zoo as one of the subjects of the Durrell Wildlife Conservation Trust’s SAFE projects (Saving Species from Extinction). Kirindy is included in some of our set departures such as our Madagascar Wildlife Discovery Tour and we regularly arrange for individual travellers to visit this fascinating place.

Highland streaked tenrec

Tenrecs are primitive insectivores on Madagascar which fill the niches occupied by shrews, hedgehogs, voles and even desmans. The Highland streaked tenrec (above) can be seen in Andringitra National Park which can be included in itineraries such as out Classic Madagascar Overland: the RN7 Route.

Painted burrowing frog

Madagascar boasts an incredibly diverse frog fauna, with well over 300 species described to date and many more awaiting formal classification. The clown of Malagasy amphibians, the brightly coloured Painted-burrowing frog, inhabits the sandstone formations of Isalo National Park and emerges briefly following rains in the austral summer. Isalo National Park is now Madagascar’s most  visited state-run protected area and is part of our popular RN7 Classic Madagascar Overland itinerary.

Schlegel's asity

The four members of the endemic Asity family are among Madagascar’s most interesting birds. During the breeding season, males develop near-fluorescent blue and green facial caruncles and are among the few birds to exhibit lek breeding behaviour. This rare photo of a Schlegel’s asity was taken by Callan Cohen in Ankarafantsika National Park (‘Ampijoroa’), the best known ‘stakeout’ for the species. The park is included in our popular Lemurs of Madagascar individual tour.

Fosa, Kirindy Forest

Largest of the island’s carnivores, the fosa is a formidable predator of lemurs and resembles a small, elongated puma. The best place in which to see it is Kirindy Forest, where some individuals loiter around the rubbish pit and cooking area at the campsite. You can hope to spot a fosa on our Madagascar Wildlife Discovery Tour.

Flatid leaf bug

Flatid leaf bugs adults (red) and nymphs (white). The nymphs excrete the white, waxy substance which grows into feathery shapes as a form of protection. They are commonly seen in some of the western and southern forests, notably Berenty Private Reserve, Ankarafantsika and Anjajavy both of which are on our Lemurs of Madagascar individual tour.

Thanks to Hilary and Daniel for the use of their photographs.

Discover Costa Rica’s Flora & Fauna

I’m just back from two weeks in Costa Rica and loved every minute of my trip. If you adore lush, beautiful scenery and the bountiful wildlife that lives within it, this is an inspirational destination, especially given the country’s determination to protect its natural heritage through eco-conscious development. The infrastructure is good which makes it easy to visit many of the national parks, and if you want to really get away from it all, the extra effort to reach the Corcovada Peninsula is well worth it. I found the Costa Ricans to be so welcoming and friendly, which really helped to make this a very special holiday. These are just some of the places I visited and the wildlife I spotted along the way.

Upon arrival into San Jose International Airport we were welcomed into this tremendous country by the warm smile of the Costa Ricans, or Ticos, as they call themselves. They are genuinely proud of their slice of paradise, and after spending two weeks travelling around Costa Rica I can understand why. We started our journey like most, in the capital, San Jose. Instead of staying in the city we opted to stay on the outskirts in Santa Barbara de Heredia.  After a short 25 minute drive from the airport we arrived at the Finca Rosa Blanca – a wonderful, artistic design property situated on an organic coffee plantation, surrounded by beautiful gardens and unforgettable views of the valley and beyond. It is definitely worth spending a couple of nights here to unwind after a long flight.

Sarah at the Finca Rosa Blanca

Finca Rosa Blanca

Our next destination was Tortuguero National Park on the Caribbean Coast. The overland transfer from San Jose by road and boat took 3 hours, however the transfer is like a tour in itself. Once you have left the city behind the scenery is stunning. You drive through the Braulio Carrillo National Park before reaching the lowlands of Limon, with hectares of banana plantations. Once you reach Cano Blanco you transfer onto a small boat for the last leg of your scenic transfer through the waterways of Rio Tortuguero. By the time we arrived at Evergreen lodge we had already seen Sloths, Caimans, Herons and Spiders Monkeys. The lodge is situated on the banks of Lake Tortuguero and this idyllic setting makes it the perfect choice -you can relax on your porch in a rocking chair and listen to the surrounding wildlife. You never have to set an alarm clock to wake up in the morning when you can rely on the Mantled Howler Monkey cries at 5am. Their cries can be heard up to 3 miles away, making them the loudest land animal on the planet.

A sloth in Tortuguero National Park

Our 3 day, 2 night programme, included a trip to the local village, a morning walk through the national park, and – the highlight of my trip –  a cruise through the canals of Tortuguero National Park . This was undoubtedly the best way to view the scenery and wildlife. If you are travelling to Tortuguero between June-Sep – it’s turtle nesting season!

Tortuguero National Park

Leaving Tortuguero behind we set off for Corcovado, located on Costa Rica’s remote southern pacific coast. The transfer was a scenic flight with Nature Air to Palma Sur airstrip, then an exhilarating 1 hr 30 m boat ride through mangrove channels, which are home to American Crocodiles.

A scenic flight with Nature Air

American Crocodile

The Osa Peninsula is situated in the remote southern tip of Costa Rica. With mind-blowing flora, abundant wildlife and deserted beaches, this is a wildlife fanatic’s dream! You are never far from the calls of the Howler Monkeys and the sight of many rare birds, but it’s not just about what you can see on land, the Osa Peninsula is one of the best areas to dive and snorkel in Costa Rica. As part of our 4 day package at the Casa Corcovado Jungle Lodge we took a boat to the Isla del Cano and just before reaching the island we were welcomed by a pod of 30 Spotted Pacific Dolphins. These graceful creatures move though the sea so beautifully, every time I encounter them my heart races with excitement. The underwater visibility was excellent – at least fifty meters allowing us to spot two white tip reef sharks, an eagle ray and lots of colourful fish.

Howler Monkey, Osa Peninsula

Casa Corcovado Jungle Lodge

For anyone who is interested in visiting Corcovado National Park, I would recommend a 4 day/3 night package staying at the Casa Corcovado. This heavenly jungle lodge is a must if you love to be off the beaten track with deserted beaches and abundant wildlife as it is the closest lodge to Corcovado National Park. There are trails from the lodge that lead deep inside the primary rainforest that you must visit with a tour guide. The trees are very high, acting as a natural umbrella, which is great if it’s raining, or if you want to stay out of the sun’s strong rays.

Corcovado National Park

Corcovado National Park

Situated 3 hours from San Jose on the Pan Pacific highway is La Fortuna, where one of Costa Rica’s active volcanos lies – Arenal. This massive volcano with its picture perfect conical shape, towers over the country’s largest lake, Laguna de Arenal. Being quite a tourist stop there are lots of activities to do around La Fortuna, we took a guided tour around the beautiful trails at the foothills of Arenal, followed by a bit of R&R at the Tabacon Hot Springs. There is free admission for those staying at the luxurious Tabacon Grand Spa Thermal Resort Lodge.

Hot Springs at the Tabacon Grand Spa Thermal Resort Lodge

Tabacon Hot Springs at the foot of Arenal Volcano

One of my biggest highlights was the transfer between Arenal and Monteverde by boat, horse back and minibus. After a short cruise across Laguna de Arenal, where you get spectacular views of Arenal, we were met by our cowboy-come-tour guide and introduced to the horses that would be taking us along the scenic lake trails for the next 2 hours. Being a confident rider, ( I have ridden all my life in many different countries) I have experienced a few interesting – and worrying! –  horses in my time. But I was very impressed with our guide and the horses’ demeanor.

Our horses for our two hour trek to Monteverde

Monteverde is in the cloud forest and probably the best place to get a glimpse of the Resplendent Quetzal as well as hundreds of different bird species and other wildlife. If you want to experience the thrill and adrenaline of zip-lining above the tree tops on a canopy tour, this is the best place to do it. We stayed at Fonda Vela Hotel, which is a cosy and friendly family run hotel, within close proximity to Monteverde National Park. Being so close to the forest means the gardens are teaming with wildlife. We spotted a Sloth from our balcony and Agutti’s lounging on the lawns. The owner is a Canadian artist and his paintings adorn all the rooms in the hotel – you can even buy one.

A sloth in Monteverdi National Park taken at Fonda Vela Hotel

Hummingbird in Monteverde National Park

On my travels through Costa Rica I feel that I have learnt so much about the biodiversity, flora and fauna of this special place – and the efforts of the Costa Ricans to protect their small fortune. In two weeks I have encountered so much wildlife and more species of bird than I have in my whole life. You can appreciate something as small as Leaf Cutting Ants working together like soldiers to get the leaves back to their nest (maybe Costa Rica does have an army after all!), to the Howler Monkeys swinging in the high trees above in their troops. With over hundreds of different species of orchids and exotics flowers in bloom, this just adds to the beauty of this country.

If you are planning a holiday to Costa Rica it would be great to share my love and passion for this country with you, and put together your perfect itinerary.

Nature Based Tourism Part 1, Madagascar

Two of Rainbow Tours travel consultants have worked closely with conservation organisations in Africa and believe that these projects are helping to make a real difference to species survival. At the same time these efforts create jobs for local people, often in remote rural areas, where work is hard to come by. In part one Rachel Dobb tells us about her experience studying in Madagascar.

Rachel Dobb - Madagascar Travel Specialist at Rainbow Tours

Rachel Dobb on MADAGASCAR

“I lived and studied in Andasibe for nine months as part of my degree. I was working with an inspirational NGO (non-governmental organisation) called Mitsinjo, and helped with their conservation work to protect the Greater Bamboo Lemur Prolemur simus), which is found in only two of Madagascar’s national parks – Ranomafana and Andringitra. This species is classified as critically endangered on the IUCN (International Union for Conservation of Nature) red list and it’s estimated that only about 300 mature individuals are left in the wild, with an estimated decline of at least 25% over the next 9 years. These numbers are shockingly low, but we were very excited as there had been sightings in unprotected areas around Torotorofotsy and Mantadia near where Mitsinjo is based.

Greater Bamboo Lemur, Ranomafana National Park

The project obtains behavioural, ecological and genetic data that is used to develop and implement large scale conservation management plans. Often, collecting this data requires long hours in the field, so our team of researchers, students and guides camped inside the National Park for months at a time, working in the early hours when the lemurs are most active. The research looks at issues such as whether unprotected areas need to be protected, what habitat features specific lemurs require and what can be done to stop the destruction of habitats that are essential to a specific lemur species. Data collection methods often rely on the use of expensive equipment like radio-tracking collars.

A stream in the primary rainforest of Ranomafana National Park, eastern Madagascar

Tourism provides vital funds to support the work of Mitsinjo and similar research projects through the entrance fees that are paid to the national parks by each visitor. The president of Mitsinjo allocates the money raised each year to worthy projects and  scientific studies. Most of these projects are locally based. As well as generating hard cash for projects, NGOs like Mitsinjo also provide jobs for local people and give the guides a sense of ownership over their local environment and a duty to protect it. Everyone at Mitsinjo has a job they wouldn’t have without tourism, and the genuine desire to protect the forest and its wildlife is clear.”

See our website for a full range of our responsible Madagascar holidays. Read about the conservation efforts hoping to protect the mountain gorillas of Uganda here.

Best safari moments in Southern Africa

I asked our Africa travel experts to pick out and describe some of their most memorable safari experiences in Southern Africa. This is what they had to say.

Botswana

By Derek Schuurman,  Africa Travel Specialist & wildlife author

One enduring memory of the Okavango Delta is flying very low over the vast swamp, and seeing hippo running under the crystal clear waters of the shallow channels. Another is watching a Pel’s Fishing Owl – like a huge ginger tom cat, it’s the Garfield of the avian world – sitting quite still in a tree for more than 45 minutes.

Pel's fishing owl, picture by Simon Stobbs

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Mozambique

By Kirsten Woolley, Southern Africa Travel Specialist

One thing that makes visiting the vast, newly restored Gorongosa National Park special is that you never run into another vehicle. It’s good for spotting unusual wildlife, such as slender oribi and bushytailed mongoose. However, my highlight was a daytime sighting of a porcupine and her offspring. It had been pouring with rain, but as the sun came out, so did the little baby to dry off.

Oribi, Gorongosa National Park

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South Africa

By Chania Hemsley-Smith, Southern & East Africa Travel Specialist

It was early evening in the Madikwe wildlife reserve, and our guide noticed a pack of wild dogs that were about to start hunting. It was a case of hold on tight as our 4WD went off road, literally through the bushes. Following the pack, we could observe their hunting technique, splitting into a V formation, giving chase, then closing in on their prey – military precision in nature!

African wild dog, Madikwe

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Namibia

By Candice Buchan, Southern Africa Travel Specialist

We’d got up before dawn to see animals arriving for their early morning drink at one of the main waterholes in Etosha National Park. A herd of elephants was already there, and as far as the eye could see there were more elephants, all in an orderly queue. When one herd had quenched their thirst and moved on, the next entered the water, and the queue shuffled up. Amazing to see the cooperation, no pushing or queue jumping, just an occasional trumpet reminding those at the front not to dilly-dally.

Elephants, Etosha National Park

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Zimbabwe

By Lisa Fisher, Africa Product Manager

One evening, returning to our camp by the Zambezi at Mana Pools, our guide spotted a leopard trying to drag its prey up a tree. But a hyena was attempting to take the kill away too. It was a fascinating struggle. At one point, we thought the hyena had given up. But no – the sneaky thing was using our vehicle to hide behind before springing another attack. Eventually, the leopard won and the hyena skulked off to scavenge elsewhere.

Leopard

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Zambia

By Des Walsh, Rainbow Tours General Manager

Zambia is home of the walking safari and nothing beats the South Luangwa National Park. Being on foot with our experienced armed ranger really let us immerse ourselves in the sounds and smells of the bush. We got up close to herds of antelope, zebra and giraffe and carefully negotiated our way around an elephant herd. I felt so alive and alert, and loved spotting the signs that other animals hadpassed along the same route. This is definitely something I’d recommend to seasoned safari goers.

A walking safari in Zambia

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Bountiful Botswana from Chobe to the Kalahari [PICS]

Botswana is wildlife heaven and really is a top safari destination. The Okavango Delta is out of this world, so lush with crystal clear streams, all the more incredible as it flows through the desert. The house boat on the Zambezi was a fabulous way to watch all the river activity as animals come to drink. Don’t miss the Kalahari if time allows as these vast flatlands are breeding grounds for huge flocks of birds and attract thousands of zebra in the Spring.

With an estimated population of 70,000 elephants, Chobe National Park is the perfect place to visit if you want to see the largest land mammals on the planet.

Traditionally a means of transport for the locals, a mokoro is the perfect way to experience the tranquil Okavango Delta. The mokoro allows you to gently glide through the Delta and is perfect for birding and finding the smaller creatures while on your Botswana safari.

2 young male lions had claimed territory from an older male. The young male must then mate with the lioness which can happen 20 – 40 times a day and only lasts about 15 – 20 seconds.

Wild dog are endangered species. I was fortunate to see 3 different packs at Vumbura Plains, Selinda and Chobe National Park. It is amazing how the whole pack start to wake with the pups first and then the older dogs waking slowly over about 30 – 60 minutes.

Impala are also known as the McDonalds of the bush. The rutting or mating season begins in April/May at the beginning of the wet season. The young are usually born 6 or 7 months later but more specifically as the first rains fall in October or November. The female has the ability to delay giving birth until the rains begin.

As terrifying as light aircrafts are to some people you cannot argue that this is the best views of the Delta. You can also choose to do a helicopter trip from certain camps in Botswana.

Africa’s Gentle Giants – Rwanda’s Gorillas [PICS]

When you think of Rwanda, what is the first thing that comes to mind?  I bet it’s gorillas, and hardly surprising as these are very special creatures that have become synonymous with the fight to protect endangered wildlife. I have just returned from a trip to experience meeting the gorillas for myself and I was completely blown away.

Rwanda’s mountain gorillas inhabit the spectacular Virunga Mountains within The Parc National des Volcanoes (PNV), an area covering more than 125 sq km. The PNV is home to five volcanoes, all extinct and covered with dense vegetation that includes significant amounts of bamboo forest. Bamboo is hard to trek through but it’s the Mountain gorillas favourite food so it has to be done in order to reach the goal of a sighting.

On the morning of my gorilla track, everybody congregated in the park headquarters at 7am. Here we were warmed up by a ‘blow-your-socks-off’ cup of Rwandan coffee, as a traditional Rwandan dance group entertained us. Once everybody had assembled, we were allocated into one of eight groups, introduced to our guide and given a briefing on how to behave when close to the gorillas – a sort of ‘gorilla etiquette’! We then set off on our hike up the mountain. One of the most enjoyable things about all of this preparation is that you don’t know quite where the gorillas are going to be. The tracking might involve clambering for two hours up 45 degree slopes, avoiding biting ants and low hanging branches, or you may take a gentle stroll for a mere seven minutes across open farmland before suddenly stumbling upon them, as one of the groups in our party did!

Our guides in Rwanda

On finding the group your trekking struggles are instantly forgotten and nothing quite prepares you for the humbling feeling that washes over you. In our group, the Hirwa, meaning ‘lucky’, there were 17 members, including a silverback and twin babies. Looking into their eyes, you feel you are actually being understood – in fact this is evidenced through the guide/gorilla vocal communication that is essentially a series of grunts, but they did seem to be understanding each other! The gorillas’ playful nature and the twins’ keenness to be the centre of attention for the entire hour (bouncing on trees as if they were trampolines and playing roly-poly down the hill) was an absolute delight to see and made the gap between primates and humans seem very narrow.

The way each gorilla has its own personal name is also very significant. A naming ceremony is held in the village each year where all members of the community can put forward name suggestions which helps to reinforce the relationship between the local community and the gorillas, helping to enshrine community ownership and the protection that results. In fact, the conservation of the Mountain gorilla in Rwanda has been a huge success in recent years, as the local community have become local ambassadors for their protection.

Jobs created from gorilla tourism have been a pivotal step in conserving these animals – many of the trackers and guides are ex-poachers who through education and opportunity have been steered away from their past lives. It’s clear when you speak to them that they now have such a warm genuine desire to protect the Mountain gorilla and more specifically the individual families with whom they spend so much time.

However, the conservation of the gorillas still has many hurdles to overcome and the groups require constant monitoring, in particular their health. Any gorilla with a health problem (including respiratory infections transmitted from humans) must be treated in situ and not removed from the group as individuals will be rejected on their return. Similarly, any rescued orphans cannot be introduced into a new family and are destined to live under the care of humans for the rest of their life. One opportunity the guides discussed was the option of introducing several orphans so that they could form their own group, but there would be many obstacles along the way if this is tried. An exciting idea none the less.

For now, you can personally help by going on a Rwanda holiday and tracking these fantastic creatures. In doing so you are directly contributing to gorilla based tourism and giving local communities a reason to protect and conserve them. After my wonderful experiences I am hopeful that this will continue for many years to come.

Attenborough’s Wonderful World

I never tire of watching this Attenborough BBC natural history clip; it brings a lump to my throat every time, reminding me just why it’s so important to travel responsibly and help to ensure we can all live in harmony with the natural world. It’s also a tribute to the skill and commitment of the BBC’s Natural History unit… the Beeb really does a lot of things very well.

Grab a cup of tea and take a two minute break to watch this wonderful clip.

In the land of the Baobabs

I’d like to tell you about an exceptionally inspiring new initiative in the Morondava area of central- west Madagascar, called Baobab Center. Our Malagasy ground handler and good friend Nivo Raveljaona visited this new project earlier this year, and is keen to include visits here as part of our program in the West of Madagascar.

Dama, the leader of one of the country’s most popular music groups, Mahaleo and his wife have opened a center in Morondava, where they train farmers to cultivate rice using sustainable techniques with only natural products. These farmers are often migrants from everywhere in Madagascar; are very poor and have no land on which to cultivate. ‘But they are ready and willing to work’, says Nivo.

The center allocates a plot of land to each person and teaches them that to escape poverty, they have to become self sustaining: in other words, they have to grow their own rice (Malagasy traditionally eat rice three times a day). Without land there would be no rice and no work, so the principle is simple: convince people to think of work first, rather than money. Two thirds of the produce is kept by each farmer and a third goes to the center, which is responsible for building huts, water pumps and sanitation works. After a family is sufficiently established, they leave the center and return to their home regions, where they train other farmers using the techniques they have learned .

‘I went there in April and was amazed by the little village’, says Nivo. ‘We want to do something to help this center. So, if tourists want to visit a typical Sakalava village , this is the perfect choice. I was very happy to watch the children taking care of their trees, that they have planted themselves and in many cases, have even named’, Nivo enthuses. ‘From the plane as you descend to Morondava airport, I have in recent years noticed that there are less and less baobabs, and because the center has a vast tract of land, it would be excellent to have tourists planting baobabs there. The people at the center will then take care of the trees’. Nivo elaborates: ‘the lady in charge, Noro, is a former English teacher, an excellent hostess and a very good cook .They have an organic vegetable garden and a farm. We dined there and the food was delicious’ .

Nivo proposes that people who arrive in Morondava in the morning could visit the center, see the village, the rice fields and Noro could give a briefing on how the center operates. They can then plant baobab trees, enjoy lunch there and in the afternoon, drive to Camp Amoureux which is at the Alley of Baobabs at exactly the right time for photographing the baobabs at sunset . (The center is on the way to the Alley of Baobabs which is a World Heritage Site and National Monument). At night they can then visit Kirindy Forest, part of the new Menabe Protected Area, which has an otherworldly look about it being dominated by thousands of baobabs, of three different species – the largest of all, Grandidier’s baobabs, is found only in this narrow area. You can also see the robust Adansonia za of the island’s southern half, and the smallest of the baobabs, Adansonia rubrostipa or the ‘Bottle baobab’.

Baobab Alley, Madagascar

Kirindy claims a world record for primate density – in this case several species of Lemur. By day you should see the ‘dancing’ and iconic Verreaux’s sifakas, along with Red-fronted brown lemurs, while by night you have the chance to see the world’s smallest primate, the endangered Madame Berthe’s mouse lemur. There is a grid of broad trails on flat, sandy substrate, so anyone can walk there with ease. The forest – which is usually tinder-box dry – has a wealth of other wildlife including the biggest predator, the Fosa, which my colleague Rachel Dobb managed to photograph in broad daylight at the researchers campsite in June.

Fossa in Kirindy

Recently, biologist Luke Dollar released this excellent video clip on the Fossa which he has been studying for many years.

Reptiles present in the area include the world’s largest chameleon, Oustalet’s chameleon, which can reach about 2 ½ feet in length – it was at Kirindy that I saw a truly monstrous specimen of about that size. (Over 60% of chameleons are unique to the island and it is their epicentre, as is the case with Baobabs). If you are lucky you may also see the very beautiful Labord’s chameleon, and a variety of snakes and other lizards. With the well tended Camp Amoureux, there is at long last good quality accommodation for visitors who want to explore the Menabe region with its compellingly unique locally endemic assemblage of flora and fauna. As Rachel and I often reminisce, there is definitely something quite surreal about being in that forest which is dominated by thousands and thousands of baobabs…

Nivo & Derek co-wrote the Globetrotter Madagascar Guide, now in its 4th edition. It remains the sole Madagascar guidebook co-written with a Malagasy author.