Category: Beaches

Highlights of Colombia: From Capital to Coast

Colombia has finally begun to secure a reputation as a safe, if somewhat off-the-beaten track destination.  Two decades have past since the dark days of Pablo Escobar and the associated drug-related violence of the early 90’s.  Modern Colombia is thriving with its strong economic and political ties to North America.  The tourist cities feel safer than ever before and the country is populated by some of the most laid back, friendly people in the South American continent. Quite amazing considering their recent, turbulent past.

Aside from the modern and vibrant capital city of Bogota, Colombia has a host of intriguing places for the more adventurous tourist. Visit the coffee triangle around the cities of Manizales, Armenia and Pereira. Take a romantic horse-drawn carriage ride through the dimly lit, cobblestone streets of colonial Cartagena. Relax on some of the remote beaches of the Tayrona National Park, located close to the Venezuelan border. Colombia is also home to hidden gems such as the small town of Villa de Leyva. As the witty tourism ministry slogan explains ‘El riesgo es que te quieres quedar’ – ‘The only risk is wanting to stay’.

Here are some highlights from my recent trip to Colombia…

Bogota

I arrived in Bogota with pre-conceptions about the security situation and conjuring images of gun-toting drug lords. With hindsight, I couldn’t have been more misinformed. Having checked into my hotel in the upmarket Zona Rosa district of the city, I took the funicular to the summit of Monserrate where you can have lunch whilst enjoying unrivaled views of the Colombian capital. After returning back to the city centre, I visited La Candelaria district where there is a high concentration of government buildings and interesting streets.  One of my favourite stops was the museum of famous Colombian figurative artist, Fernando Botero.  Botero is famous for accentuating the fullness of his subjects.

City of Bogota

Cartagena

Having spent a couple of days in the capital, I took an early morning Avianca flight to the northern coastal city of Cartagena. Cartagena is a former hub of the Spanish empire in the 16th Century, and was an important shipping port of the wealth from the New World to Spain. Cartagena is now arguably the number one place to visit in Colombia as it oozes history, colonial charm and is the perfect setting for a romantic getaway. I spent most of my time in the UNESCO World Heritage Old Town which is surrounded by stone walls enclosing several blocks and hundreds of charming colonial homes – many of which have colorful flowers hanging from their balconies. I like my architecture so I felt like a kid in a candy store. The famous Colombian author, Gabriel Garcia Marquez has a house in the city. His home is right next to the Sofitel Santa Clara hotel which is worth a visit even if you are not a paying guest! The hotel was used to film part of ‘Love In The Time of Cholera’ – associated with a Marquez book by the same name.

UNESCO World Heritage Old Town of Cartagena

UNESCO World Heritage Old Town of Cartagena

Santa Marta & Tayrona National Park

From Cartagena I made the road trip along the coast to the city of Santa Marta. My favorite excursion was to the 17th Century Hacienda ‘La Quinta de San Pedro Alejandrino’ which is famous for being the place where South American liberator Simon Bolivar died. A little further along the coast towards the border with Venezuela, I found what can only be described as a hidden gem, an off-the-beaten track paradise. The Tayrona National Park is set in a mountainous region flanked by rugged beaches. I camped in the park for a number of nights although the Ecohabs offer a more comfortable way to stay. There are not many tourists or locals around so it really is a great place to forget about your woes!

Caribean Beach close to Cartagena Colombia

Africa’s Idyllic Coast & Indian Ocean Islands

Africa’s eastern coastline is brimming with gorgeous beaches both on the mainland and on the Indian Ocean islands. Whether you want to dust off after a safari, grab some winter sun or simply relax with the one you love, there’s a huge choice. Here is a small selection of some of our favourites.

Desroches Island, Seychelles
Fourteen kilometers of immaculate palm fringed beaches, just like a picture postcard, Desroches Island gets our vote for tranquility and romance.

Vamizi, Quirimbas Archipelago, Mozambique
Best for getting away from it all, in a few hours you can walk around the whole of Vamizi Island on its wild, untouched beaches, lapped by crystal clear waters.

Belle Mare Plage, Mauritius
Great for families, a big spacious beach where there’s room for everyone, with a ton of activities for all tastes.

Ponta Mamoli, Mozambique
A great spot for swimming with dolphins with excellent diving too. Easily accessed from South Africa, White Pearl Resort is the place to stay.

Beau Vallon, Mahé, Seychelles
Fringed by coconut palms, this 3 km beach is great if you like the buzz of local life, with ‘feet-in-the-sand’ restaurants, serving local Creole cuisine.

Bay of Memba, Mozambique
The ultimate diver’s paradise, the edge of the continental shelf is just off shore, so don your diving kit, walk across the beach and wade right in. Stay at Nuarro Lodge.

Anjajavy, Madagascar
Anjajavy’s sandy coves and turquoise waters bordered by lemur-rich dry forest reserve is out of this world. Outdoor dining on the beach is a magical experience.

Ibo Island, Quirimbas Archipelago, Mozambique
There’s no beach on Ibo Island but a pristine tidal sandbank appears at low tide and the lodge takes you out by boat and sets up camp with shade and refreshments, whilst you snorkel. We love it.

Pongwe, Zanzibar
Arguably the best beach in Zanzibar – soft white sand and clear blue water on a secluded bay – and the lodge offers terrific value.

The Hidden Highlights of Mauritius

For me, Mauritius conjures up images of long sweeping beaches and turquoise seas. Consequently when the opportunity arose to spend 6 nights savouring this beautiful island on an educational trip I jumped at the chance.  It being so close to Madagascar and regular flights between the two with Air Mauritius means these two destinations can work perfectly in combination.

After a 12 hour flight we touched down and stepped foot on the Mauritian turf, and were soon showered with bright yellow floral garlands and made to feel unbelievably welcome.  We set off on the coastal journey to the beautiful and elegant Dinarobin Hotel & Spa in the tranquil south west of the island and I soon got those first glimpses of the glittering sea I had been dreaming of.  And to think it had been 9°C and drizzling as I left the UK just thirteen hours previously…

So evidently, the countries coastline is spectacular and just calling for you to spend lazy days on the beach. However, what I didn’t realise is that Mauritius offers so much more….

On the first full day we had a surprise excursion lined up. We had been asked for our weights prior to the trip and I had horrible visions (or nightmares) of sky-diving and paragliding off cliffs. It turns out we were to see the island via an aerial view, but in the safety of a helicopter! The excitement built as we hurtled round to the helipad in the grounds of the Paradis Hotel & Golf Club and heard the deafening sound of the chopper ready to go. I felt as if I was in a movie as I donned my headgear and microphone and before I knew it we were hovering over the ocean with a bird’s eye view across the entire Le Morne Peninsula.  We swooped around the mountain and inland where our pilot pointed out several local sights and attractions including a beautiful waterfall. With one final stomach churning turn we descended back towards the helipad to get our feet back onto dry land; however I would quite happily have stayed in the air forever!

Helicopter Ride across Le Morne Peninsula

If we thought after the helicopter experience things couldn’t get any more adventurous, we were so very wrong. Harnessed up at Casela Nature and Lesiure Park, we were driven even further up into the highlands for a double adrenaline hit. They boast the longest zipline circuit in the Indian Ocean and it was quickly realised that it is not for the faint hearted, as we saw the cables suspended many metres above the canyons. Jumping off the first rock and into oblivion was certainly not easy, but once we got going the experience was highly exhilarating and it was an opportunity to sit back and enjoy the breathtaking views! Casela Nature and Leisure Park also offer some brilliant wildlife and you can enjoy the natural beauty of the country by quad, buggy or segway.

The team at Casela Nature Park

Zip Wiring in Mauritius

If eco-tourism is more your thing, then the trails in The Black River Gorges National Park will satisfy your appetite. Established in 1994, this park is found in the south western part of the island and exists for the conservation of endemic fauna and flora and as the provision of leisure for tourists. Over 60km of hiking trails are found in the park and there are breath-taking panoramic views to be found at Gorges View Point and Alexandra Falls as well as the highest peak of the island. Simply stunning.  The new Lakaz Chamarel Lodge set in the lush vegetation of the chamarel highlands nearby proves to be a perfect base for this exploration – the views from The Exclusive ‘Piton Canot’ Pool Suite villa over the entire Le Morne Peninsula are especially spectacular; this has without a doubt made it to my top 10 list of places to stay in the next 10 years!

The View from the ‘Piton Canot’ Suite at Lakaz Chamarel

So if you think Mauritius is all about the beaches and R&R – think again. This is obviously a big highlight of the country but if you dare to venture a little further into the heart of the country you’ll find it offers so much more…

Tanzania – Saadani – Bush, River and Beach!

With approximately 80% of people who visit mainland Tanzania travelling to the Northern Parks, it is great to visit one of the lesser known and trodden paths in the country. The mix of different ecosystems sets Saadani apart from all the national parks in Tanzania. Being able to relax on the beach, take a game drive, cruise down the Wami river in search of hippos, explore the park by foot, and visit the historic local village all in a few days makes for an amazing experience!

Saadani Beach

Saadani National Park

Saadani River Lodge is set on the banks of the Wami River and is all about relaxation whilst surrounded by nature. The suites are spacious and luxurious and the whole lodge perfectly fits within the surroundings. You can spend all day by the pool listening to the sounds of the river or if you are feeling a bit more adventurous head out for a trip on the river amongst the vast numbers of hippo. Finish off with a sundowner drink by the riverbank. Perfect! Baby the ‘resident’ hippo can often be found trudging around the lodge!

Saadani River Lodge

Sundowner by the river at Saadani River Lodge

Hippo by the river at Saadani River Lodge

Saadani Safari Lodge is right by the beach and only a short walk away from Saadani Village. The rooms are located along the beach and waking up in the morning to the sun rising over the Indian Ocean is just beautiful! With one activity per day included you can pick and choose how much time you wish to relax or be active. Mornings could be spent by the pool with an afternoon game drive or a morning guided walk before breakfast, followed by a day on the beach. It is up to you. The evenings are often spent at the bar where Ali will serve fantastic cocktails! All being part of the ‘Saadani experience’!

Maridadi Suite

Village Tour in Saadani

Even though the animals at Saadani are not as in greater numbers as in the Northern Parks, the fact you have the National park essentially to yourself and that you know you will not be with the crowds makes Saadani a really special place. There are not many places where you can be on the river, in the bush and on the beach in one day! The park is still evolving and that is the beauty of going now. The two lodges (river and safari) offer beautiful and unique settings combined with friendly, personal, and genuine warm welcomes. Saadani is a real hidden treasure and the two lodges are key in the continuing conservation of the park and the advancement of the local community.

Spotted: Turtles laying eggs on Kenya’s Beaches

Today we received fantastic news from one of our favourite lodges on the Kenya coast, Kinondo Kwetu. Recent tracks on the beach show that turtles have been laying eggs overnight, an activity that is very unusual for this part of the coastline. The turtles have returned for the second year in a row and this is a promising sign that all the conservation work that the lodge is doing is having a positive effect.

Congratulations to Kinondo Kwetu and we look forward to seeing pictures of the hatchlings in the future.

A beach adventure in Sierra Leone

Most people don’t think of Sierra Leone as a family destination. It’s a wonderful option for those who love adventure, are happy to ‘rough it’ when it comes to accommodation and don’t mind being flexible when plans change. However, the Wynter Bee family recently discovered its deserted white sand beaches, compelling history and welcoming people. On their return they emailed me such gripping and heart-warming feedback.

Sarah and Peter Wynter Bee got in touch with us as they wanted to travel to Sierra Leone to see their daughter Jessie who was carrying out part of her medical training there to become a doctor. This is what they wrote:

“The highlight of our trip was the remote Turtle Islands, which have no mobile phone connection or electricity – brilliant. Getting there was a big adventure – a six-hour boat ride with no navigation equipment other than a compass on the dashboard. We stayed in a basic bungalow. Evenings were very sociable. At times, there were so many islanders hanging out with us and helping it felt like a tropical version of Downton Abbey! We paid for evening meals – excellent fish stews and rice – but you need to bring everything, including all food except fish, along with tea/coffee, beer and water, plates and cutlery, and even a cooking pot if you want to self-cater.

Later, we treated ourselves to a couple of nights at Franco’s, on an unspoilt beach not far from the capital Freetown. It’s an amazing set-up, straight out of Somerset Maugham. Our room had hot water – which seemed like an indulgence – and the food was excellent. Watch out for rip currents off the ocean beach. Freetown was both friendly and fascinating. The trip upriver to Bunce Island, a slaving station whose haunting remains are still very much visible, was an unmissable experience.

Sierra Leone does present challenges. For example, checking in at Lungi Airport for the return flight was horrendous, with everyone bribing officials to avoid queuing.

However, Rainbow’s team on the ground organised everything excellently. We got used to jumping on and off boats with our rucksacks, not being sure where we were going or who was going to meet us, but someone always appeared.

Be open-minded and flexible, and you will have a wonderful time.”

Bureh beach