Rachel Dobb

Nature Based Tourism Part 1, Madagascar

Two of Rainbow Tours travel consultants have worked closely with conservation organisations in Africa and believe that these projects are helping to make a real difference to species survival. At the same time these efforts create jobs for local people, often in remote rural areas, where work is hard to come by. In part one Rachel Dobb tells us about her experience studying in Madagascar.

Rachel Dobb - Madagascar Travel Specialist at Rainbow Tours

Rachel Dobb on MADAGASCAR

“I lived and studied in Andasibe for nine months as part of my degree. I was working with an inspirational NGO (non-governmental organisation) called Mitsinjo, and helped with their conservation work to protect the Greater Bamboo Lemur Prolemur simus), which is found in only two of Madagascar’s national parks – Ranomafana and Andringitra. This species is classified as critically endangered on the IUCN (International Union for Conservation of Nature) red list and it’s estimated that only about 300 mature individuals are left in the wild, with an estimated decline of at least 25% over the next 9 years. These numbers are shockingly low, but we were very excited as there had been sightings in unprotected areas around Torotorofotsy and Mantadia near where Mitsinjo is based.

Greater Bamboo Lemur, Ranomafana National Park

The project obtains behavioural, ecological and genetic data that is used to develop and implement large scale conservation management plans. Often, collecting this data requires long hours in the field, so our team of researchers, students and guides camped inside the National Park for months at a time, working in the early hours when the lemurs are most active. The research looks at issues such as whether unprotected areas need to be protected, what habitat features specific lemurs require and what can be done to stop the destruction of habitats that are essential to a specific lemur species. Data collection methods often rely on the use of expensive equipment like radio-tracking collars.

A stream in the primary rainforest of Ranomafana National Park, eastern Madagascar

Tourism provides vital funds to support the work of Mitsinjo and similar research projects through the entrance fees that are paid to the national parks by each visitor. The president of Mitsinjo allocates the money raised each year to worthy projects and  scientific studies. Most of these projects are locally based. As well as generating hard cash for projects, NGOs like Mitsinjo also provide jobs for local people and give the guides a sense of ownership over their local environment and a duty to protect it. Everyone at Mitsinjo has a job they wouldn’t have without tourism, and the genuine desire to protect the forest and its wildlife is clear.”

See our website for a full range of our responsible Madagascar holidays. Read about the conservation efforts hoping to protect the mountain gorillas of Uganda here.

What to eat on holiday in Madagascar

Trying out the local dishes is all part and parcel of any trip abroad and it’s no different when on holiday in Madagascar. Although there are strong French influences in Malagasy cooking (Madagascar was a French colony from 1896 to 1960), most dishes are rice based and on any drive through rural Madagascar, and even in the suburbs of the capital Anatananarivo, where there’s water you’ll see rice paddies. Rice or ‘vary’ is often eaten three times a day, so no surprise then that the national dish, Ramazava, is based on rice. This popular dish is cooked in one single pot, often on an open fire, with rice added to a sizzling mix of beef, greens, tomato, onions and ginger.

Rice paddies dominate the landscape in the central highlands of Madagascar

A quick poll at our London office however, shows that our Madagascar team unanimously vote ‘fish in coconut sauce’ as the most tasty, traditional dish. Anywhere on Madagascar’s coastline visitors will find that seafood dishes predominate. And Madagascar has a lot of coast – it’s the fourth biggest island in the world with a tropical coastline of 3000 miles, a mix of idyllic white sand beaches, rocky headlands and lush vegetation.

Local Malagasy Fishermen

Our second favourite dish is chicken with vanilla sauce. Over 80% of the world’s vanilla is produced in Madagascar, and whilst most is exported to the USA, many local dishes, both savoury and sweet use the spice. Vanilla is actually a Mexican orchid and it has to be hand pollinated as the insect that naturally pollinates it, a specific type of stingless bee, is only found in Mexico. After saffron, labour-intensive vanilla is the second most expensive spice word-wide. Madagascar together with its Indian Ocean neighbours, Reunion, Mauritius and the Seychelles, are collectively called the Vanilla Islands.

One last ‘must try’ is Ravitoto, a dish made from a spinach-like green leafy green vegetable, often cassava leaves, which are ground up and boiled with small pieces of fatty pork and ginger root. Cassava leaves can taste a little bitter, so this dish needs to be boiled for quite some time, and either a little sugar or coconut milk can be added. Eat it with hot rice of course!

The quality of fresh fruit and vegetables in Madagascar is remarkable, even though there is little use of pesticides as yet, and whilst the individual fruit may look smaller than we are accustomed to, in many cases the taste is considerably richer. On the west coast the mango season is October to November, and the same time of the year on the more humid east coast it’s lychee season. There can be a massive surplus of both in season, with stalls lining the roadside villages. So expect delicious fresh fruit at every meal and follow the locals who use a handy twig to floss their teeth after dinner.

Freshly grown mango

Don’t miss the opportunity to try the mangosteen, our favourite of all Madagascar’s exotic fruits. The outside is purple with a bright white edible inside, shaped rather like a tangerine. It only grows close to the equator and is our contender for the accolade of ‘tastiest fruit in the world’. We aren’t the only ones who have taken a shine to this delicious fruit; legend has it that Queen Victoria offered £100 to anyone who could bring her fresh mangosteen.

Mangosteen

Our Madagascar holiday team here at Rainbow Tours are passionate about all things Malagasy and believe that travel should involved the local community, so that visitors receive the very best welcome and genuinely experience the real Madagascar. Food can serve as a window into understanding other cultures better and sharing a meal is a great way to promote conversation and forge real relationships.

The Hidden Highlights of Mauritius

For me, Mauritius conjures up images of long sweeping beaches and turquoise seas. Consequently when the opportunity arose to spend 6 nights savouring this beautiful island on an educational trip I jumped at the chance.  It being so close to Madagascar and regular flights between the two with Air Mauritius means these two destinations can work perfectly in combination.

After a 12 hour flight we touched down and stepped foot on the Mauritian turf, and were soon showered with bright yellow floral garlands and made to feel unbelievably welcome.  We set off on the coastal journey to the beautiful and elegant Dinarobin Hotel & Spa in the tranquil south west of the island and I soon got those first glimpses of the glittering sea I had been dreaming of.  And to think it had been 9°C and drizzling as I left the UK just thirteen hours previously…

So evidently, the countries coastline is spectacular and just calling for you to spend lazy days on the beach. However, what I didn’t realise is that Mauritius offers so much more….

On the first full day we had a surprise excursion lined up. We had been asked for our weights prior to the trip and I had horrible visions (or nightmares) of sky-diving and paragliding off cliffs. It turns out we were to see the island via an aerial view, but in the safety of a helicopter! The excitement built as we hurtled round to the helipad in the grounds of the Paradis Hotel & Golf Club and heard the deafening sound of the chopper ready to go. I felt as if I was in a movie as I donned my headgear and microphone and before I knew it we were hovering over the ocean with a bird’s eye view across the entire Le Morne Peninsula.  We swooped around the mountain and inland where our pilot pointed out several local sights and attractions including a beautiful waterfall. With one final stomach churning turn we descended back towards the helipad to get our feet back onto dry land; however I would quite happily have stayed in the air forever!

Helicopter Ride across Le Morne Peninsula

If we thought after the helicopter experience things couldn’t get any more adventurous, we were so very wrong. Harnessed up at Casela Nature and Lesiure Park, we were driven even further up into the highlands for a double adrenaline hit. They boast the longest zipline circuit in the Indian Ocean and it was quickly realised that it is not for the faint hearted, as we saw the cables suspended many metres above the canyons. Jumping off the first rock and into oblivion was certainly not easy, but once we got going the experience was highly exhilarating and it was an opportunity to sit back and enjoy the breathtaking views! Casela Nature and Leisure Park also offer some brilliant wildlife and you can enjoy the natural beauty of the country by quad, buggy or segway.

The team at Casela Nature Park

Zip Wiring in Mauritius

If eco-tourism is more your thing, then the trails in The Black River Gorges National Park will satisfy your appetite. Established in 1994, this park is found in the south western part of the island and exists for the conservation of endemic fauna and flora and as the provision of leisure for tourists. Over 60km of hiking trails are found in the park and there are breath-taking panoramic views to be found at Gorges View Point and Alexandra Falls as well as the highest peak of the island. Simply stunning.  The new Lakaz Chamarel Lodge set in the lush vegetation of the chamarel highlands nearby proves to be a perfect base for this exploration – the views from The Exclusive ‘Piton Canot’ Pool Suite villa over the entire Le Morne Peninsula are especially spectacular; this has without a doubt made it to my top 10 list of places to stay in the next 10 years!

The View from the ‘Piton Canot’ Suite at Lakaz Chamarel

So if you think Mauritius is all about the beaches and R&R – think again. This is obviously a big highlight of the country but if you dare to venture a little further into the heart of the country you’ll find it offers so much more…

Saving the Indri’s home in Madagascar

Madagascar has always sounded so magical to me – it’s the fourth largest island in the world and famous for its unique flora and cute lemur. Whilst watching the animated film on a dreary Sunday morning, never did I expect I would have the opportunity to visit myself.

As we pulled up into the village of Andasibe for the first time, there was no time for settling in. Immediately we were surrounded by a throng of curious Malagasy children whose keen eyes had spotted the rugby ball my companion had packed, in amongst litres of insect repellent. After a tiring 2 hour game of “piggy in the middle”, we retired to our beds for our first night in the forest.

Indri lemur in Andasibe-Mantadia National Park

Hearing the eerie whale-like calls of the Indri-Indri is an exciting moment – even at 5am. Seeing them 2 metres away is even more thrilling. After a traditional breakfast of boiled rice pudding, cooked by our “Malagasy mum” living next door, we set off into the rainforest at the Andasibe-Mantadia National Park (Perinet) with our English speaking guide Justin. After an hour, there was a rustling in the distance trees and seconds later a family of Indri bounded through the trees, fluffy white and black bodies coupled with piercing blue eyes. It was a heart-stopping moment as one individual clung to the tree just metres away from us, gingerly accepting a bunch of leaves.

Trekking through this wildlife rich rainforest, the seriousness of Madagascar’s plight struck me. Less than 10% of the native rainforest remains and continues to be under serious threat. The work of pro-active organisations like Mitsinjo, a special reserve opposite Andasibe-Mantadia NP are key to ensuring these biodiversity hotspots are not lost. I had the opportunity to work on their reforestation project which aims to plant new saplings to re-link areas of fragmented forest, which in turn will permit genetic exchange between populations of animals and plants. I was involved with gathering fertile soil from the forest to aid sapling growth; extremely satisfying work, despite an unfortunate encounter with a scorpion, much to the delight of the guides.

Mitsinjo also support and host scientific projects, with a keen focus on endangered species including the Greater bamboo lemur (Prolemur simus). Frequent habitat studies of this diminishing species are in vital in order to protect it from habitat destruction and eventual extinction.

Greater bamboo lemur

Madagascar is a country that didn’t fail to excite and the exposure to the wildlife was unparalleled. Now I am back living in the UK, I am excited to work with Rainbow Tours, sending others out to Madagascar to enjoy and share in my experiences.  Supporting Madagascar’s fragile economy through responsible and eco-tourism still gives me a strong sense of satisfaction, despite being thousands of miles away.

Andasibe