Archive for March, 2012

‘This isn’t just music, it is magic’

‘This isn’t just music, it is magic‘, commented music producer, critic, multi-instrumentalist and Madagascar expert Paddy Bush on one of the recently aired episodes of a stunning, 5-part series of BBC programs about the traditional music of the Great Red Island, Madagascar.

To make the series for BBC Radio 3′s World Routes, the crew embarked on an fascinating and sometimes adventurous trip in September 2009, with members including BBC producer Lucy Duran; Paddy Bush and Madagascar’s ‘musical ambassador’ Justin Vali. Travelling along the much- enjoyed ‘RN7′ route from Antananarivo down to Tulear and Anakao on the south-west coast, their mission was to record what Bush aptly describes as authentic Malagasy music in its various forms. Listening to the tracks featured in this series, the association between some of the music and a variety of rituals and ceremonies which vary regionally across the country, quickly becomes apparent.

Indeed, what you are listening to is more than just music. In Madagascar, traditional music is regularly linked to spiritual practices. It is used for example, to induce the tromba, a trance state which in the southern region is known as bilo. During the tromba of the Sakalava in the western lowlands, mediums are invariably female while the tromba spirits usually male. Spirits of course, have human personalities, so each will have its own, choice pieces of music. Among the Betsimisaraka people of the eastern coastal region, musicians might place toaka gasy (rum), cigarettes or other potentially appreciated objects inside an instrument as an offering to ancestral spirits so as to receive blessings. In the highlands, music features heavily during the famadihana ceremonies, which are periodic exhumation and reburial of ancestors at family tombs. Among the many exceptional musical tracks included in the BBC series, was some music which is sacred to the Merina people.

I remember telling Paddy after I had listened to an episode which included a Hira Gasy performance by the Merina people of the Central Highlands that it didn’t only give me goosebumps, but that I had an almost out-of-body experience, so intense was the effect of that track. Interestingly, a number of other listeners reported the same response. Hira Gasy are usually day-long events of music, dance and oratory known as kabary, performed by ensembles of (mostly Merina) musicians.

It was largely thanks to Justin Vali that they were able to record the Hira Gasy, as well as some mind-blowing music of the Antandroy and Veso people, who live in the harsh, south-western sub-desert. There, they had the privilege of meeting up with two local legends: Madame Masy, the only woman to have mastered the Marovany; an instrument related to Madagascar’s ‘national’ instrument, the Valiha, a bamboo tube zither. Like the original Malagasy settlers, the Valiha has its origins in faraway Indonesia rather than Africa. They also recorded Remanindry, an imposing and unmistakeable figure, who has performed with the internationally popular Orchestra de Madagascar. He can be seen in action with the orchestra the rare clip below.

Also on stage, to the left in the same clip is Justin Vali, arguably the best Valiha player around today. Besides having made excellent albums – one of which, The Sunshine Within – was produced by Paddy Bush, Vali has recorded with the likes of Paddy’s sister, acclaimed British musician Kate Bush. On the more upbeat tracks of her ‘Red Shoes’ album, Justin and Paddy played plenty of Valiha, which brought Malagasy music to the attention of a wider international audience. For anyone interested in a memorable and very unusual musical journey which delves beneath the surface of the multi-layered and complex culture of the Malagasy, I highly recommend listening to these programs. The episodes can be heard on Lucy Duran’s BBC page.

The BBC crew crossing a river by Zebu-cart

Kaapse Klopse – Cape Town’s own carnival

Rio Carnival, Notting Hill Carnival, Kaapse Klopse. You may not recognize the last one, but in Cape Town there is a lively and festive annual New Year’s carnival.

The festival’s origins date back to the colonial rule and slave trade era in the late 1700’s. The Cape Malay community are descendants of Malay slaves, European sailors, Hottentots and colonial settlers from era of the Cape of Storms,  which later became known as the Cape of Good Hope. When slavery was finally abolished in the early 1800’s, the slaves decided to celebrate their newfound freedom with a parade by getting dressed up in their finest outfits, painting their faces so they could not be recognised by their former owners, and marching from the Castle to the Bo-Kaap on 2 January. It has been an annual event ever since.

Participants sing and dance to the 'gumba' beat

The contemporary Cape Malay community is a fiercely proud blend of Muslims and Christians, renowned for their sharp humour, charisma and colourful use of Afrikaans, liberally spiced with swearwords which many believe is unsurpassed anywhere in the world. The Klopse has survived as a celebration of freedom and culture, and the outfits have become brighter, but not smaller.

It is THE event of the year in Cape Town, and almost everybody in the community takes part, some even travel from Johannesburg and further afield to participate. Preparations for the main New Year event commence around Easter, when the back-room seamstresses start sewing the suits (the brighter the better), and the junior members begin practising their songs in the dimly-lit backyards of humble homes in the Cape Flats. Every troupe member pays around R400 (£40) for their suit in the troupe’s colours – a tidy sum in an area where unemployment and poverty is rife. Teenagers practice for nine months to play their battered brass instruments and to learn to play the gumba beat.

When the big day finally arrives, the kids are ready by 9am while the adults slowly ease into the party vibe – some being quite pickled… When the procession finally gets going, the troupe does a practise march through the suburb street before heading off towards the city centre in a blizzard of neon hats and small umbrellas.

Kaapse Klopse in full colour

One by one, the groups file past, each brighter and louder than the one before. A proud youngster doing their most impressive break-dancing moves will often lead a troupe.  The kids are followed by the adults, who in turn are followed by a ragtag brass and percussion band performing popular and traditional songs, which participants march and dance to. Babies are carried by proud fathers and the wheelchair-bound are pushed along. Grandfathers, their faces covered in glitter, socialise with spectators familiar to them, who are camped out with picnic baskets along the route. After the march in the city, many participants head for the retirement homes before continuing to party late into the night.

Children taking part in the Klopse

I was privileged to be a part of it all, and an honorary member of the Olympic All Stars troupe. I was touched by the openness and generosity of my hosts,  who invited me into their humble homes and shared their traditional food and tea while answering all our silly questions with genuine enthusiasm. I was amazed to find that so few people outside the community were aware of this carnival and its salutary significance. Some troupes are sponsored, but most of the members have to pay the organisers, busses and seamstresses from their own, very modest wages.

In a poor community where drug abuse is highly prevalent, preparations for the carnival unifies the people and it certainly plays a role in keeping vulnerable kids off the streets. It is definitely worth supporting when visiting South Africa.

A beach adventure in Sierra Leone

Most people don’t think of Sierra Leone as a family destination. It’s a wonderful option for those who love adventure, are happy to ‘rough it’ when it comes to accommodation and don’t mind being flexible when plans change. However, the Wynter Bee family recently discovered its deserted white sand beaches, compelling history and welcoming people. On their return they emailed me such gripping and heart-warming feedback.

Sarah and Peter Wynter Bee got in touch with us as they wanted to travel to Sierra Leone to see their daughter Jessie who was carrying out part of her medical training there to become a doctor. This is what they wrote:

“The highlight of our trip was the remote Turtle Islands, which have no mobile phone connection or electricity – brilliant. Getting there was a big adventure – a six-hour boat ride with no navigation equipment other than a compass on the dashboard. We stayed in a basic bungalow. Evenings were very sociable. At times, there were so many islanders hanging out with us and helping it felt like a tropical version of Downton Abbey! We paid for evening meals – excellent fish stews and rice – but you need to bring everything, including all food except fish, along with tea/coffee, beer and water, plates and cutlery, and even a cooking pot if you want to self-cater.

Later, we treated ourselves to a couple of nights at Franco’s, on an unspoilt beach not far from the capital Freetown. It’s an amazing set-up, straight out of Somerset Maugham. Our room had hot water – which seemed like an indulgence – and the food was excellent. Watch out for rip currents off the ocean beach. Freetown was both friendly and fascinating. The trip upriver to Bunce Island, a slaving station whose haunting remains are still very much visible, was an unmissable experience.

Sierra Leone does present challenges. For example, checking in at Lungi Airport for the return flight was horrendous, with everyone bribing officials to avoid queuing.

However, Rainbow’s team on the ground organised everything excellently. We got used to jumping on and off boats with our rucksacks, not being sure where we were going or who was going to meet us, but someone always appeared.

Be open-minded and flexible, and you will have a wonderful time.”

Bureh beach

Desperately seeking Chania!

I’ve been called many things – China, Cheddar and Shanya to quote a few  – but being named after a river in Kenya has its upside too; I love to travel and I put my wanderlust down to my parents’ choice of name.

My parents met in Africa, at Thika, about 40 km north east of Nairobi, and here they began a leisurely courtship, oftentimes walking beside the River Chania to the Chania Falls. They never lost their love for East Africa, so when I came along some years later they couldn’t resist calling me after a waterfall… it was either to be Chania or Victoria!

My Dad used to tease me and say I was named after a muddy river. Unimpressed I searched for information about Kenya, and came across the Flame Trees of Thika by Elspbeth Huxley, a novel about an unconventional family who settle in Kenya and start a coffee plantation.

My appetite whetted, I started to plan a journey across Africa with the Chania Falls as my ultimate goal. Eventually I set off on an overland trip from London to Harare via West Africa – many thousands of miles of travel and an experience that would turn out to be wonderful and formative in equal measures.

Six months later I arrived in Harare, Zimbabwe (the end of the line for my overland truck) and began planning the final leg of my quest. My only option was local transport, so I simply got on a bus marked ‘Nairobi’. Many, many stops later, I arrived in the capital and immediately began to search for people to share a taxi ride with me to Thika.

In Kenya a shared taxi means up to 10 people, with their children, babies, chickens and huge bags of produce. Once the taxi was full to the rafters, the driver maneuvered himself in and off we set. Perhaps not the most comfortable journey I have ever taken, but by this point I felt I was with kindred spirits.

Finally we arrived at Thika and now I just needed to locate the river. After several contradictory directions, I finally found my namesake. Not as impressive as Victoria Falls in Zambia I agree, and a little muddy in parts, but I still felt fit to burst with pride that I was named after something real, something that was so much part of the Africa I had come to love deeply over the past months.

I did have a paddle, but my abiding memory is of a delicious cold beer at the Blue Post Inn overlooking the Chania Falls. Why, I wonder, didn’t my Dad tell me about this!

Since this youthful trip, I’ve visited East Africa many times and I now plan holidays in Kenya for other people. There are just so many iconic places to experience like the national parks of Masai Mara, Amboseli and Meru, and the vast sandy beaches on Kenya’s Indian Ocean coastline. I’ve been luck to see such spectacular scenery, Africa’s Big-Five and to meet so many fascinating people, but I’ll always cherish the memories of tracking down my muddy namesake.

Saving the Indri’s home in Madagascar

Madagascar has always sounded so magical to me – it’s the fourth largest island in the world and famous for its unique flora and cute lemur. Whilst watching the animated film on a dreary Sunday morning, never did I expect I would have the opportunity to visit myself.

As we pulled up into the village of Andasibe for the first time, there was no time for settling in. Immediately we were surrounded by a throng of curious Malagasy children whose keen eyes had spotted the rugby ball my companion had packed, in amongst litres of insect repellent. After a tiring 2 hour game of “piggy in the middle”, we retired to our beds for our first night in the forest.

Indri lemur in Andasibe-Mantadia National Park

Hearing the eerie whale-like calls of the Indri-Indri is an exciting moment – even at 5am. Seeing them 2 metres away is even more thrilling. After a traditional breakfast of boiled rice pudding, cooked by our “Malagasy mum” living next door, we set off into the rainforest at the Andasibe-Mantadia National Park (Perinet) with our English speaking guide Justin. After an hour, there was a rustling in the distance trees and seconds later a family of Indri bounded through the trees, fluffy white and black bodies coupled with piercing blue eyes. It was a heart-stopping moment as one individual clung to the tree just metres away from us, gingerly accepting a bunch of leaves.

Trekking through this wildlife rich rainforest, the seriousness of Madagascar’s plight struck me. Less than 10% of the native rainforest remains and continues to be under serious threat. The work of pro-active organisations like Mitsinjo, a special reserve opposite Andasibe-Mantadia NP are key to ensuring these biodiversity hotspots are not lost. I had the opportunity to work on their reforestation project which aims to plant new saplings to re-link areas of fragmented forest, which in turn will permit genetic exchange between populations of animals and plants. I was involved with gathering fertile soil from the forest to aid sapling growth; extremely satisfying work, despite an unfortunate encounter with a scorpion, much to the delight of the guides.

Mitsinjo also support and host scientific projects, with a keen focus on endangered species including the Greater bamboo lemur (Prolemur simus). Frequent habitat studies of this diminishing species are in vital in order to protect it from habitat destruction and eventual extinction.

Greater bamboo lemur

Madagascar is a country that didn’t fail to excite and the exposure to the wildlife was unparalleled. Now I am back living in the UK, I am excited to work with Rainbow Tours, sending others out to Madagascar to enjoy and share in my experiences.  Supporting Madagascar’s fragile economy through responsible and eco-tourism still gives me a strong sense of satisfaction, despite being thousands of miles away.

Andasibe

Kilimanjaro climb – I did it!

Starting a new job is never easy and of course, much like the first day of school, you are always keen to impress. When I started my first job in African travel back in 2007 I was exactly that – keen to impress. However,  unlike school where it maybe wearing cool clothes or having the latest pair of football boots that serves to impress, my first task was to agree to climb Kilimanjaro, in Tanzania, the highest mountain in Africa. My answer of “oh yeah, why not” seemed like a good idea at the time, however finding myself several months later hiking at well over 5,000 metres, I was not sure it was my greatest decision.  In hindsight I am so, so glad I said yes!

Climbing Kilimanjaro is tough, but do not be fooled into thinking that it is ‘not for me’ or ‘there is no way I could do that’. Making it to the top requires a fair level of fitness, some good guiding and pre-climb advice, a bit of luck with the way altitude effects you, and most importantly (in my opinion), a strong attitude of ‘I am going to do this!’

Climbing Kilimanjaro, day 3

So late October the same year, myself and a group of eight others set off on the Rongai route on the mountain. The five night / six day Rongai climb is the “easiest” good quality route on the mountain (although that really is a figure of speech, all the climbs are tough)!  It is also very quiet compared to Machame or Marangu which now account for over 70% of all traffic between them. Rongai is an excellent wilderness climb and especially well suited to climbers who are anything other than super-fit. (Myself being nowhere near the super-fit status!)

The first few days take you through villages, forests and along rocky paths, and although the days are long, there are frequent rest breaks, and it is not long before you are really feeling part of a team which is attempting something pretty special. There is no rush and the words ‘pole pole’ or ‘slowly slowly’ will be etched into your mind by the guides; that along with the many, many songs sung along the way! Food is hearty and well deserved. In the evening after a long day you normally go straight to sleep, although a card game or two is a must. Be warned: Tanzanian and British card games can be very different which can make for an interesting night or two!

As the days go on, the ascent becomes tougher. You are soon well above the cloud line and your legs and lungs start to feel the strain. However, the sense of anticipation for what lies ahead and the truly breathtaking scenery, whether it be the stars at night or the peak of Mawenzi Tarn (one of the three extinct volcanoes that make up Kilimanjaro), inspires you to go on.

Kilimanjaro - summit at sunrise

And so, after five days of hiking the big night arrives; the summit attempt! Following a restful day,  you are woken at around 11.30pm for some hot food and drink before setting off by flashlight to attempt the six-seven hour push to the top. Climbing by night means you avoid the loose scree which makes climbing hard. This is a long, long cold night and there is no getting around the fact that it is really tough, both physically and mentally. But despite hours thinking – why did I do this and what was I thinking saying “oh yeah, why not” – at around 7am this all changes as you reach Gilman’s Point to see the spectacular sun rising impressively to greet you! This sight is something I will never forget and truly is worth all the cold and pain of the night. As you push onto Uhuru, the highest point in Africa, it then feels ‘a must’ to keep going as the realisation of what you are about to achieve begins to hit home – I have done it! (And maybe a little of bit of – well for me anyway – I hope that is impressive enough for my new job – the fact I lost the company video camera on the descent we won’t go into now!!)

Climbing ‘Kili’ really is one of the toughest things I have done, but trust me, all the training, the cold nights, the sore legs, and the altitude effects become irrelevant when you are standing on the top of Africa. It is incredibly impressive!

The highest point in Africa - Rob at the top (in green)

Trekking to Machu Picchu – A Guide’s View

I’m from Peru and used to work as a tour leader there and have done The Inca Trail many times. Now I’m based in the UK and I’m a travel consultant for Rainbow Tours. I spend my time helping people to have the very best holidays in Latin America. It’s a wonderful region full of quite breathtaking experiences, but my heart still lies in Peru and for me the classic trek to Machu Picchu is hard to beat.

Spectacular Andean scenery…world-class historical ruins…the satisfaction of real physical achievement…The first time I tackled the four-day Inca Trail was the most amazing and fulfilling experience I’ve ever had.

The second day is the toughest, with an ascent to the 4,215-metre high Dead Woman’s Pass – also known as The Gringo Killer! But all the hard work is worthwhile when you feast your eyes on the breathtaking landscape set against a backdrop of snow-capped mountains.

Dead Woman’s Pass, Inca Trail

The scenery on the trail is incredibly varied. On the third day, you descend into rainforest, before setting up camp near the Winay Wayna ruins.

At night on the trek, you sleep in a tent on a comfy mattress. The tents are erected by porters, who also carry your bags, prepare meals and wake you with a hot cup of coca tea on chilly mornings.

On the last day, you wake at 4am, and make your way to the Sun Gate to watch the sun rise slowly over Machu Picchu. Even though I’ve been lucky enough to have witnessed this 45 times, the view still blows me away. You then have time to explore the site, before descending the easy way – by bus and train to Cusco.

The Inca Trail is challenging, but achievable by anyone who is reasonably fit and acclimatised – as part of your trip planning, we always incorporate two or three days of pre-trek acclimatisation in Cusco. It’s worth it. Doing the trek is unforgettable, whether the first or the 45th time.

The Peruvian authorities recently placed a daily limit on the number of visitors to Machu Picchu. By booking in advance through Rainbow Tours, your entrance to this iconic site will be guaranteed.

Machu Picchu, Peru

A safari for the soul in the Kalahari, South Africa

There is just something privileged about being lucky enought to visit Tswalu Kalahari Game Reserve in the Northern Cape, South Africa. From the moment you arrive at their private lounge for the jet transfer into this 100 000 hectare private reserve which only caters to 13 rooms to the small touches in the room such has home-made vegetable crisps and fudge.

What really touched me is the community involvement and the staff who are true ambassadors rather that just employees, showing such pride in the lodge and the development of what was once a waste land into a conservation success story with boasting rights to lion, cheetah, rhino, wild dogs and some fascinating little things, such as caracal and aardvark.

Caracal at Tswalu Game Reserve

Our guide was proud to show off his staff home which every member of staff is entitled too. In addition there is a pre and primary school, a comprehensively equipped medical centre which is open to the local community, which is often staffed by international volunteer doctors and many other excellent projects.

Tswalu is one of only three places in Southern Africa where you can see meerkats up close in their natural environment. After spending many Sundays glued to Meerkat Manor on Channel 5, I got to see the family dynamics up close and I found myself on the lookout for predators! Guides know exactly where to find them and we got to see them twice, early morning and late afternoon.

Meerkat at Tswalu

This experience is not for those wanting to tick off the mammal list from a safari vehicle, as you truly have the opportunity to get the dust of Africa on your boots with guided walks, sleeping under the stars and going into the hills to see bushman paintings. They also cater for all horse riding abilities from their immaculate, fully equipped stables, they even had a donkey carriage for me!

I loved Tswalu’s private house, Tarkuni which is in fact a huge 5 bedroom family home perfect for large groups or a family taking over to celebrate a memorable occasion, and I thought it would be perfect for my next big birthday (my 21^st of course). I can just imagine my family gathering around the communal table or relaxing at the pool. Motse Lodge is also great with families and the suites are large enough to take two adults and two children under 12 years.

During my quiet time at Tswalu, under the big sky on my luxurious veranda, I had time to contemplate and reflect on this special place, true safari for the soul.

Tswalu cummunity creche